What a Day. And not in a good way. I was hit with the horrible traditional mindset today that disables this country, and most of Africa. It started, very early, with a casual discussion with the headmaster at the school where we are carrying out the sex education talks. We were killing time waiting for the translator. I decided to take the opportunity to broach the subject of corporal punishment with him as it is practiced at the school. Teachers walk around with slim pieces of bamboo and shake it at the kids to move them along. One teacher even has two that he taps together constantly. The kids visibly cower at the sight of them.
Anyway, so, I dove into the subject with as much gusto and optimism as with everything else. I had even more hope since I was talking to the headmaster that had asked us to do the sex ed talks. He even allowed us to talk about condoms (which I took as total free reign and have been showing the kids how to use one on a cucumber). I soon discovered though that he considered corporal punishment as not only one option for discipline, but the only way to discipline. As I struggled to make my case, he interrupted me almost as soon as I had opened my mouth so it was difficult, he had a stupid smile and expression of amusement at what I was saying (typical in men of power here). He did most of the talking and I caught him in numerous contradictions but, even still, there was no movement on his behalf to accept what I was saying. After about an hour and a half, I was so frustrated and could hardly contain myself. I knew I was wasting my breath and suddenly felt an overwhelming sadness that these children have no advocates. No safe place to be. No kind person to confide in. No protection. Their parents are so poor, have so many children and have so little education that they are of little support to the child. They more often than not are the cause for most of the abuse children in this country face. So they leave an abusive home to come to a school that also carries out abuse with no real monitoring. They get beaten if they are late. No exceptions. They just didn't get up early enough. It's ridiculous. There is no punishment for teachers who go over the top. It seems that kids get the switch for even the most minor of infractions. We passed the elementary school and saw a girl of no more than 6 years old getting her hands switched. What, I ask, could she have done that warranted that?!
The students at all levels of schools here also have to do chores before school starts (cleaning the floor, watering the plants, sweeping etc.). We're teaching the kids about human rights and a lot of them are being violated in their own school that we're teaching at! There is so much exploitation and abuse I haven't even scratched the surface.
So, after about two hours of talking with the headmaster I couldn't take it anymore. I was overcome with sadness and felt that I wouldn't be able to control my tears. I made a swift (15 minutes) departure and held myself together until the dirt road and 45 minutes walk down the hill back to town. We had to hurry because we were now late for my meeting with the Regional Commander of the police. Another battle I thought. And probably a pointless one too.
It wasn't as bad as I had expected. I think he thought better than to get into a debate with me over giving human rights talks to the police. I really want to present rape training to them. The police rarely prosecute rape, the biggest crime in this area, and more times than not berate the victim. And, get this, if the victim went to the hospital first and not the police, they won't look into the crime! It's also common and pretty inexpensive to bribe the police into dropping the charges and investigation.
So, I felt that if I was telling kids to go to the police if they need help or see human rights violations then I want the police to actually act as they should. So, the Commander told me I have to write a letter and then he'll decide. My fingers are tightly crossed but I am now not as convinced as I once was that I can make it happen. At least he didn't say no right away so there is always hope.
I am trying to keep my spirits up but the realities of life here are depressing and I feel beyond powerless. I guess that's how women are supposed to feel here. I'll have a pint and pull myself together because I am so lucky and stronger than that. And the women who are truly powerless need my help. Hopefully, my efforts are making at least the tiniest of impact here. One can only hope!
Wednesday 15 October 2008
Monday 29 September 2008
Update from Moshi
Well, I'm finally back in the land of the living. I was completely knocked off my kilter these past four days with food poisoning, or so the doctor says. I woke up not feeling well on Thursday and after having had a few trips to the loo I decided a cup of tea was in order. Bad idea. It made me really sick and as I was leaning over the toilet to throw up I had that awful feeling of fainting coming on. As I was heading for the bathroom floor, I managed to grab the door, open it and call out for a friend. After a few minutes on the floor, a glass of water and wet cloth to the head I was able to catch my breath. By the time I managed to stumble back to my room, passed half the hostel who had come over to help, a cab had arrived and two of my friends were dressed with their bags over their shoulders ready to take me to the hospital. I pulled on a pair of jeans and decided to make the effort to put a bra on. Good thing really because as I arrived at the hospital, I passed a woman in a full burka. (It's actually black and called a sharshaf but wanted most of you to know what I was talking about)!
So here I was. The last place I ever wanted to be in Africa. And after seeing the doctor who ordered blood tests I was having exactly what I didn't want to have done to me in Africa. I was like something not right sat there with my arm outstretched. I watched every movement the woman did, worried about getting anything near me that could be contaminated. The needle was disposable and came out of a sealed package so I felt better. Only problem was it was a huge needle and as she approached my arm I actually said, "Dude, don't you have anything smaller?" To which she replies, "This is the smallest needle we have." The girls that came with me started laughing. I suppose I was lucky to get a sterilized needle at all! It was a quick process and in my delirious mood I had forgotten all the details so had a bit of a panic attack last night at the hostel and had to look up HIV and Hepatitis transmission information. What can I do in any case? Can't pay fear a dividend as my mum always says!
After the blood test came the stool sample. I thought, oh no, this is going to be so awful, thinking it would be a process of the doc inserting a swab or something "you know where" and taking it to the lab. No, no, no! This is Africa after all. Out walks the lab tech with one of those black camera film cases with the grey lids (for all of us old enough to remember when digital cameras were a thing of the future). She puts it down in front of me and I laugh, "what the hell am I supposed to do with that?!" Her colleague giggles and she takes the camera case away bringing back a slightly bigger official looking sample jar thing and places it in front of me. Again, but this time to myself, I ask, "What the hell do I do with that?!" The reality of what the next ten minutes is going to be like makes me feel even worse and although I've had awful diarrhea all morning I don't feel the urge. Of course. I ask for rubber gloves - which they had, thank the Universe - and I shuffle off to the bathroom. The experience lasted no longer than 5 minutes and wasn't as traumatic as I had expected. Thank the Universe again! This time for all things celestially aligning at that exact moment to help guide "things" exactly where they were meant to go! Enough said!
Results came back quickly and it turns out that my body was fighting a bad infection which the doctor thought was food poisoning. So after waiting for my prescriptions and re-hydration fluid, we all hopped in a cab back to the hostel where I climbed into bed and didn't come out of for three days. I ventured out yesterday for an hour and was back in bed as soon as I got back. I had set my goal a bit too high. I am feeling worlds better today, just a bit weak and tired, but I expect to be as good as normal by Wednesday. I hope so because we have another human rights talk on Friday that I have to be in tip top shape for!
Speaking of which...the human rights talk we did last Wednesday went really well. In fact, I think I may have found my calling. I was a bit nervous beforehand because I never was much of a "kids person" (except for my adorable, brilliant and beautiful neice!) and also because I didn't know how I would do with the whole presentation thing. Doing a board room presentation is much different than talking about rape and domestic violence to a bunch of kids who experience this on a daily basis. I did the introduction and as I began my entire being was engulfed in a wave of adrenaline. During my piece outlining the rest of our talk, I actually felt a knot in my throat when touching upon the women's rights issues. I couldn't believe I was actually in Africa, talking about issues I am vehemently passionate about to a group of young people that may have gotten some of what I was saying. It wasn't all about the feeling of me presenting to them, but more about getting them to think and question and talk to each other. It was fun to initiate a thought and ask facilitating questions and then sitting back and listening to what came out of them. I am now seriously considering going back to school for my PhD. I wouldn't want to teach English or Geography to young students. I'm thinking more about being a college professor in the human rights genre. Being able to inspire young adults to think outside the box, to travel, to volunteer, or even to do research abroad would be amazing. I'm not familiar with the American higher education situation so if you know anyone who I should talk to or things I should be doing please let me know. I'm sure it's not a simple process so I still plan to come back a get a job but I am definitely going to move forward with this. Being able to be as loud and as passionate as I want in that medium is a perfect fit for me. And actually being able to possibly inspire people is a dream come true! Not to mention, and I'm sure most of you'll appreciate, me being my loud passionate self away from the dinner table!
So, here's to more good times (and no more bad) in Moshi!
This blog entry is dedicated to Amy and Ren from Hostel Hoff who went out of their way to take of me and held my hand through the whole stool sample trauma - all the way up to the bathroom door anyway! Definitely friends for life! Thanks girls - I owe you!!
So here I was. The last place I ever wanted to be in Africa. And after seeing the doctor who ordered blood tests I was having exactly what I didn't want to have done to me in Africa. I was like something not right sat there with my arm outstretched. I watched every movement the woman did, worried about getting anything near me that could be contaminated. The needle was disposable and came out of a sealed package so I felt better. Only problem was it was a huge needle and as she approached my arm I actually said, "Dude, don't you have anything smaller?" To which she replies, "This is the smallest needle we have." The girls that came with me started laughing. I suppose I was lucky to get a sterilized needle at all! It was a quick process and in my delirious mood I had forgotten all the details so had a bit of a panic attack last night at the hostel and had to look up HIV and Hepatitis transmission information. What can I do in any case? Can't pay fear a dividend as my mum always says!
After the blood test came the stool sample. I thought, oh no, this is going to be so awful, thinking it would be a process of the doc inserting a swab or something "you know where" and taking it to the lab. No, no, no! This is Africa after all. Out walks the lab tech with one of those black camera film cases with the grey lids (for all of us old enough to remember when digital cameras were a thing of the future). She puts it down in front of me and I laugh, "what the hell am I supposed to do with that?!" Her colleague giggles and she takes the camera case away bringing back a slightly bigger official looking sample jar thing and places it in front of me. Again, but this time to myself, I ask, "What the hell do I do with that?!" The reality of what the next ten minutes is going to be like makes me feel even worse and although I've had awful diarrhea all morning I don't feel the urge. Of course. I ask for rubber gloves - which they had, thank the Universe - and I shuffle off to the bathroom. The experience lasted no longer than 5 minutes and wasn't as traumatic as I had expected. Thank the Universe again! This time for all things celestially aligning at that exact moment to help guide "things" exactly where they were meant to go! Enough said!
Results came back quickly and it turns out that my body was fighting a bad infection which the doctor thought was food poisoning. So after waiting for my prescriptions and re-hydration fluid, we all hopped in a cab back to the hostel where I climbed into bed and didn't come out of for three days. I ventured out yesterday for an hour and was back in bed as soon as I got back. I had set my goal a bit too high. I am feeling worlds better today, just a bit weak and tired, but I expect to be as good as normal by Wednesday. I hope so because we have another human rights talk on Friday that I have to be in tip top shape for!
Speaking of which...the human rights talk we did last Wednesday went really well. In fact, I think I may have found my calling. I was a bit nervous beforehand because I never was much of a "kids person" (except for my adorable, brilliant and beautiful neice!) and also because I didn't know how I would do with the whole presentation thing. Doing a board room presentation is much different than talking about rape and domestic violence to a bunch of kids who experience this on a daily basis. I did the introduction and as I began my entire being was engulfed in a wave of adrenaline. During my piece outlining the rest of our talk, I actually felt a knot in my throat when touching upon the women's rights issues. I couldn't believe I was actually in Africa, talking about issues I am vehemently passionate about to a group of young people that may have gotten some of what I was saying. It wasn't all about the feeling of me presenting to them, but more about getting them to think and question and talk to each other. It was fun to initiate a thought and ask facilitating questions and then sitting back and listening to what came out of them. I am now seriously considering going back to school for my PhD. I wouldn't want to teach English or Geography to young students. I'm thinking more about being a college professor in the human rights genre. Being able to inspire young adults to think outside the box, to travel, to volunteer, or even to do research abroad would be amazing. I'm not familiar with the American higher education situation so if you know anyone who I should talk to or things I should be doing please let me know. I'm sure it's not a simple process so I still plan to come back a get a job but I am definitely going to move forward with this. Being able to be as loud and as passionate as I want in that medium is a perfect fit for me. And actually being able to possibly inspire people is a dream come true! Not to mention, and I'm sure most of you'll appreciate, me being my loud passionate self away from the dinner table!
So, here's to more good times (and no more bad) in Moshi!
This blog entry is dedicated to Amy and Ren from Hostel Hoff who went out of their way to take of me and held my hand through the whole stool sample trauma - all the way up to the bathroom door anyway! Definitely friends for life! Thanks girls - I owe you!!
Saturday 13 September 2008
Volunteering Here I Come!
I will be starting in a volunteer position on Monday with a project here called Minjeni. They have three departments/focal areas; Health, Orphans and Women. I'll be working with the women. Right now it sounds like we will be carrying out a series of sex ed and human rights seminars. I'm not sure at this point what other work I will be doing. What can be outlined depends on the director of the individual sites but I already know that I'm going to break the rules if condoms are not to be discussed. I'll break the rules until I get reprimanded and then just claim ignorance.
It's pretty open and volunteers can, if they have the desire and wherewithal, to implement any number of programs. I'm working mainly with two other volunteers, Amy, who I share a room with and Evelinn, a woman who has been here multiple times and is very much a driving force in this project. I like them both and really look forward to working with them. The villages we go to look amazing and on a clear day I will have one hell of a view - right over Mt. Kilimanjaro!
It's only been a week but I like it here. The people at the hostel are really mellow. A big group of us went out last night and it was a blast. We went to a local nightclub that actually played good music and it was such a release to be able to dance like a mad woman. The only down side was towards the end of the night a group of dancers came out for their "international" dancers show. Turns out it was a group of six Kenyans scantily dressed shaking their bums! The three women had very little more on than a bikini and a thong one at that. It was not my thing and I have to admit I thought it was degrading. We all snuck out after a bit. Not the way I would have liked to end the night but all in all it was a great night.
Dona arrived today. It was good to see her and have my traveling buddy back. It nice to have her see where I'm going to be for the next couple of months. She's heading home on Wednesday and dreaming about Taco Bell. I have to admit, I would kill for regular taco. I'm also craving In N Out, Round Table, Beach Hut Deli Nachos, Rich's ribs, and, of course, chili cheese dip. I'll have to throw a welcome back party for myself and everyone can bring a classic dish that I've missed so much. Don't worry, I'm starting the list now!
It's pretty open and volunteers can, if they have the desire and wherewithal, to implement any number of programs. I'm working mainly with two other volunteers, Amy, who I share a room with and Evelinn, a woman who has been here multiple times and is very much a driving force in this project. I like them both and really look forward to working with them. The villages we go to look amazing and on a clear day I will have one hell of a view - right over Mt. Kilimanjaro!
It's only been a week but I like it here. The people at the hostel are really mellow. A big group of us went out last night and it was a blast. We went to a local nightclub that actually played good music and it was such a release to be able to dance like a mad woman. The only down side was towards the end of the night a group of dancers came out for their "international" dancers show. Turns out it was a group of six Kenyans scantily dressed shaking their bums! The three women had very little more on than a bikini and a thong one at that. It was not my thing and I have to admit I thought it was degrading. We all snuck out after a bit. Not the way I would have liked to end the night but all in all it was a great night.
Dona arrived today. It was good to see her and have my traveling buddy back. It nice to have her see where I'm going to be for the next couple of months. She's heading home on Wednesday and dreaming about Taco Bell. I have to admit, I would kill for regular taco. I'm also craving In N Out, Round Table, Beach Hut Deli Nachos, Rich's ribs, and, of course, chili cheese dip. I'll have to throw a welcome back party for myself and everyone can bring a classic dish that I've missed so much. Don't worry, I'm starting the list now!
Wednesday 10 September 2008
Another Religious Thought
I keep thinking of the old joke that goes..."There is a flood in a small town. A man climbs on his roof to avoid the rising waters. He prays, 'Dear Lord, please save me from this rising water.' A moment later a man in a boat comes along and says, 'Jump in and I can save you from drowning." To which the man replies, 'No, if God wants me to live he will save me.' So the man in the boat, shocked, continues on his way to help others. Then a helicopter comes along just as the man's feet begin to get consumed by the water. The helicopter pilot shouts down, 'Quick, grab the rope and I can save you from the rising water.' Again the man replies, 'No, if God wants me to live he will save me.' Eventually the water rise above the man's head and he drowns. When he comes face to face with God he asks, 'God, I have been dedicated to you my whole life and sacrificed much in your name. Why did you not save me?' God looks at it with a look of puzzlement and responds, 'What do you mean? I sent you a boat and a helicopter!'
You may think I'm nuts for comparing this joke to the situation here but, if you are a believer, God gave humans intelligent. He made us curious, explorers, discoverers. He made us (at least some) scientists. Ultimately, it could be argued he made us be able to fight and protect ourselves against diseases. So, what will God say when many meet him and say, 'God, I have been dedicated to you my whole life and sacrificed much in your name. Why did you not save me?' Will he reply like the joke, 'What do you mean? I provided you with all that you needed to protect yourself - vaccinations, medicines, and even condoms!' (Condoms, in this case, being the proverbial boat)
Why are people so afraid of sex and, more specifically, contraception? I don't know. Its such a crazy world.
Please provide comments. I'm interested to hear your thoughts, no matter what they are.
You may think I'm nuts for comparing this joke to the situation here but, if you are a believer, God gave humans intelligent. He made us curious, explorers, discoverers. He made us (at least some) scientists. Ultimately, it could be argued he made us be able to fight and protect ourselves against diseases. So, what will God say when many meet him and say, 'God, I have been dedicated to you my whole life and sacrificed much in your name. Why did you not save me?' Will he reply like the joke, 'What do you mean? I provided you with all that you needed to protect yourself - vaccinations, medicines, and even condoms!' (Condoms, in this case, being the proverbial boat)
Why are people so afraid of sex and, more specifically, contraception? I don't know. Its such a crazy world.
Please provide comments. I'm interested to hear your thoughts, no matter what they are.
Tuesday 9 September 2008
Personal Update...
As most of you can imagine, particularly from reading these postings, I have been having an amazing trip. I have seen and experienced more than I could have dreamed of from my bed back in California. It truly has been a trip of a lifetime - in more ways than I had expected.
I have dreamt of traveling and volunteering in Africa for as long as I can remember and as such I thought I would fall in love with the continent as soon as my feet touched the soil. Other than a fleeting moment in Rwanda, I haven' felt that. Don't get me wrong, Africa is incredible and the people are some of the most beautiful I have ever met. I just didn't feel the way I thought I would.
Originally, I thought of this trip as more of a career move - wanting to transition into a career with an international aid slant. This vision has been drastically changed after having experienced so much in the past two months. I have been completely disenchanted with large aid organizations here in addition to the overwhelming pervasiveness of fundamentalist religion. Charity and foreign office compounds sound more like the fraternity and sorority system (with all the drinking and drama that goes with it) than aid institutions. Westerners usually don't integrate into the local culture and the workers from some of the largest organizations are actually loathed by locals.
The religious institutions here are many and their messages are relatively similar, extremely conservative and absolutely damaging to society here. It is unfathomable to me how "missionaries" can come here, see the poverty, the difficulties of basic life here and still preach what they do - "abstinence only" in a society, like the rest of the world, where sex is natural and going to happen regardless of how many times you tell a person its a sin. They also say no contraception when you are married. Women here have a child clinging to their skirt, one stuck to their back and another growing in her belly. The men, generally, have very little, if nothing at all, to do with raising the children. The women therefore must take care of the babies themselves not to mention their husbands. It is not only socially irresponsible but economically devastating. These families have barely enough to feed husband and wife, let alone 5-8 kids! We're talking food. You can forget about educating these children and providing them with an even remotely viable future. This isn't good for the children, the families, the villages and the countries of Africa. The ignorance the religious right are pushing here is criminal. The sheer number and sheer blindness of these people is overwhelming and I feel for the first time in my life where my abilities are concerned, defeated. The religious groups are like ants here, thousands of them marching along their little ant trail unwilling or unable to see the harsh reality that is all around them. What can I do as one little person against this mass of self-righteous blind ignorance?
In addition to all of this, I thought that this trip was something I wanted, and needed, to do myself. What I've felt over the last couple of months, however, has been quite different. I can see being able to stay here long-term if I settled down with my own place, my own kitchen and some basic comforts. Thing thing is though, I don't want to settle down into a life without Richard. Its the first time in my life that I have felt this way and, to be honest, have been finding it confusing, to say the least. Poor Dona has been listening to me sort through everything for about the last five countries! She's definitely earned her friendship badge of honor! Seriously though, I guess this trip has made me realize what is important to me. And although I haven't yet discovered what I want for my life, I am checking of the list things that I don't.
To settle down anywhere would require earning a living and as a British citizen, USA resident I am limited to where and how I earn money. I need to become an American citizen if I am to seriously consider working in another country.
So, with all the above in consideration, I have decided, and booked flights, home in mid-November. I don't have any definite plans (of course!) but am going to apply for my citizenship and hopefully get an interesting job. I still hope that my time and experience here leads to a job in the international realm but I suppose that is for the universe to decide. :)
I am currently in Moshi and going to visit the different projects tomorrow. I'm really excited about being in one place for awhile and getting to know a place and the people. The hostel is great and the people seem really cool. I'm off to dinner now but will keep you updated on my progress.
I have dreamt of traveling and volunteering in Africa for as long as I can remember and as such I thought I would fall in love with the continent as soon as my feet touched the soil. Other than a fleeting moment in Rwanda, I haven' felt that. Don't get me wrong, Africa is incredible and the people are some of the most beautiful I have ever met. I just didn't feel the way I thought I would.
Originally, I thought of this trip as more of a career move - wanting to transition into a career with an international aid slant. This vision has been drastically changed after having experienced so much in the past two months. I have been completely disenchanted with large aid organizations here in addition to the overwhelming pervasiveness of fundamentalist religion. Charity and foreign office compounds sound more like the fraternity and sorority system (with all the drinking and drama that goes with it) than aid institutions. Westerners usually don't integrate into the local culture and the workers from some of the largest organizations are actually loathed by locals.
The religious institutions here are many and their messages are relatively similar, extremely conservative and absolutely damaging to society here. It is unfathomable to me how "missionaries" can come here, see the poverty, the difficulties of basic life here and still preach what they do - "abstinence only" in a society, like the rest of the world, where sex is natural and going to happen regardless of how many times you tell a person its a sin. They also say no contraception when you are married. Women here have a child clinging to their skirt, one stuck to their back and another growing in her belly. The men, generally, have very little, if nothing at all, to do with raising the children. The women therefore must take care of the babies themselves not to mention their husbands. It is not only socially irresponsible but economically devastating. These families have barely enough to feed husband and wife, let alone 5-8 kids! We're talking food. You can forget about educating these children and providing them with an even remotely viable future. This isn't good for the children, the families, the villages and the countries of Africa. The ignorance the religious right are pushing here is criminal. The sheer number and sheer blindness of these people is overwhelming and I feel for the first time in my life where my abilities are concerned, defeated. The religious groups are like ants here, thousands of them marching along their little ant trail unwilling or unable to see the harsh reality that is all around them. What can I do as one little person against this mass of self-righteous blind ignorance?
In addition to all of this, I thought that this trip was something I wanted, and needed, to do myself. What I've felt over the last couple of months, however, has been quite different. I can see being able to stay here long-term if I settled down with my own place, my own kitchen and some basic comforts. Thing thing is though, I don't want to settle down into a life without Richard. Its the first time in my life that I have felt this way and, to be honest, have been finding it confusing, to say the least. Poor Dona has been listening to me sort through everything for about the last five countries! She's definitely earned her friendship badge of honor! Seriously though, I guess this trip has made me realize what is important to me. And although I haven't yet discovered what I want for my life, I am checking of the list things that I don't.
To settle down anywhere would require earning a living and as a British citizen, USA resident I am limited to where and how I earn money. I need to become an American citizen if I am to seriously consider working in another country.
So, with all the above in consideration, I have decided, and booked flights, home in mid-November. I don't have any definite plans (of course!) but am going to apply for my citizenship and hopefully get an interesting job. I still hope that my time and experience here leads to a job in the international realm but I suppose that is for the universe to decide. :)
I am currently in Moshi and going to visit the different projects tomorrow. I'm really excited about being in one place for awhile and getting to know a place and the people. The hostel is great and the people seem really cool. I'm off to dinner now but will keep you updated on my progress.
Sunday 7 September 2008
Update from Tanzania
We all know I am terrible at updating this blog, so, I'm going to recommend you read Dona's blog. She writes in her journal daily and transcribes that onto her blog. When we don't get to the internet for days or weeks she just goes in and changes the dates to reflect her journal entries. She is also a much better writer than I am. Trust me, wait until you read her stuff. Check it out at www.donastravels.blogspot.com
So, having not written in weeks, I am going to work backwards. We are currently in the very small town of Babati in Tanzania. Dona had met someone who runs a tourism company out of Dar es Salaam and is chief of police here. We are surrounded by national parks here and went on a safari yesterday to Tarangire National Park which, during this time, has the highest concentration of wild animals than any other park. It is also the one less frequented by tourists so is much less crowded than the others. It was amazing. As soon as we entered the park we drove into a group of zebras. There were hundreds in the park so they were a common site throughout the day. We saw elephants, giraffes, wart hogs, buffalo, impalas, ostriches, and a whole host of other animals that I can't remember at the moment. The most exciting part of the day were the lions. We happened upon a female lying in the shade of a tree just near a small herd of elephants. As we approached I kept asking why she wasn't going for the baby elephant and why the grown elephants weren't more concerned. Turns out, they were. As we sat and watched the mother elephant went over to the lion who quickly moved to the other side of the tree. The elephants all grouped together at that point with the little ones in the middle of the pack. The mother elephant stomped towards the lion who jumped away and started walking towards us. As the lion did so the elephant let out an almighty noise. It was incredible. The lion moved along side our truck and I could see her chin was bloody - maybe an earlier lunch? As she passed she made a small growling noise. All the while the group of elephants never broke. We didn't stay around long enough to see what else happened but it was incredible. Got it on video too! On the way out of the park we passed a few more lions that were lounging in the sun. They are truly incredible animals and to see them in the wild is wonderful. It was definitely in the top five highlights of trip.
Also ranking in the top five was our recent trip to Zanibar. It was where we spent the last week. Zanibar is a fantastic blend of cultures and history. It has a very strong Islamic base because of the Arabs that settled there and set it up as a major trade hub. It is famous particularly for the slave trading that took place. The Arabic culture is combined with the Swahili culture and offers unique traditions, food and atmosphere because of it. We arrived on the island a couple of days before the start of Ramadan and it was interesting to see how everyone had to respect those specific traditions. We couldn’t even drink water in public during the day. Other than the amazing architecture, food, and shopping, the true highlight for us was swimming with dolphins. And I don’t mean, going to Sea World, putting on a life vest and jumping into a tank. I mean, hopping into a small fishing boat grabbing some snorkel gear and heading out to the open ocean. It didn’t take long to find a pod of dolphins. You could see their fins and backs pop up out of the water. I was a little scared at first but with the men frantically yelling at us to get in the water I didn’t have too much time to think about that. Once in the water and able to see below the surface was like a little kid squealing with excitement. There was about 16-20 dolphins all swimming around and under us. They were smaller than the dolphins we have in sea world but just as beautiful and elegant. They would swim with us and then go off deeper into the ocean. The tides are crazy on the east coast of Zanibar and low tide goes out for what seems like miles. The tide was going at during our trip so the dolphins were heading to deeper water. When they did this we would have to climb back in the boat and the driver would frantically chase them, yelling at us to go when the time was right. On one of our last interactions with the dolphins there was a group on the bottom, about 30-40 ft down. It looked like one had caught a fish and was eating it. About eight other dolphins gathered round too and it looked almost like a feeding frenzy you see with sharks but without the intensity. Eventually, I realized that a few of them were bringing the fish up to the surface and when it got closer I could tell it was a blow fish and they were playing with it! They were using it as a balloon almost, each taking a turn to gently push it up towards it. They brought the blow fish within a few feet of us. It was amazing and I was laughing into my snorkel. I’m sure them men on the boat thought I was psychotic listening to the cackles coming from below the water. I’ve never felt such amazement in my life. Dolphins are so intelligent and playful. I could have spent hours in the water with them. Unfortunately, it was cold and they kept going out into deeper water. We felt like we were hunting them so decided to let them be and go into shore a snorkel among the coral. It was one of the most amazing things I have ever done.
Our time before Zanibar was really all about traveling to get to Dar es Salaam from Mozambique. That actually took us a bit more time than we expected. We crossed at one of the most remote border crossings from Mozambique and getting there would have been near impossible had it not been for the kindness of some South Africans. We hitch hiked from Pemba and were lucky enough to be picked up by a group of SA guys. They took us up to there “compound” in Mocimboa do Praia and offered us a room to stay. They were with an oil company that had a place there but their main camp was in a place called Palma – where we were heading to cross the border. They said they would arrange for a truck to take us there in the morning. We paid for nothing – even the huge meal they had the cooks prepare for us. When we were dropped off in Palma, we sat waiting for a ride to the border but after an hour with no luck we began to realize it would be more difficult than we first thought. One SA guy stopped and told us although he wasn’t going to the border if we were still here when he got back he would arrange something for us. In the meantime, he suggested we go to the oil company main camp and ask them if anyone was going. So, Dona headed over and about 10 minutes later she came around the corner and gave me the thumbs up.
Turned out there were 3 very bored SA guys who agreed to take us – and more importantly, their boss agreed to let them use the truck. Lucky thing for us because the road to the border was a dirt track that required the truck to be in 4 wheel drive the whole time. It took us about an hour and half to get there. Once there, we had to take a canoe across a large river. It was a comical experience. The ferry had sunk the week prior so we had no option but to go with the canoe/paddle option. Now, the clever thing is that when you cross over, the immigration office is 5 km down a dirt road. There was no organized transport. Luckily, we had spotted some vehicles along the river as we were crossing so we walked along the river to the vehicles. We asked one man if he could take us and he said yes, popped out of the truck and walked over to a huge bus, hopped in a revved up the engine. Dona and I looked at each other with amusement because the guy had passed about 10 smaller vehicles. Oh well, it was a ride. Turns out that it was a contracted bus for the oil guys. Didn’t know they would be so helpful to us. So we got to the immigration office, hitched a ride to the next town, traveled to every bank in this town to get money out and had one of the best dinners I’ve had all trip – fried chicken and garlic mashed potatoes.
I’d like to note that from our experience here I find South Africans even more intriguing than I did before. We had nothing but generosity, kindness and almost old school gentlemanly treatment from the SA men we met. They seem very open and willing to help and you wouldn’t think a bad thing about them. But then you really get to talk with them and that old school treatment of women is connected to an old school mentality that we are fragile, need to be taken care of, and can’t do things independently. There is also an underlying racism too. Although they would deny it (strictly speaking of the SA we have met on our trip) they say racist jokes and comments constantly. They also wouldn’t think of stopping to pick up a couple of black hitch hikers. But theirs is an experience and history that I couldn’t imagine. I just find them confusing and interesting.
When we were in Pemba, there was a party at the campsite we were staying at. It was the birthdays of two ex-pat South Africans and the place was just mobbed with them. I felt like I was watching a strange world through a window and at times felt like I shouldn’t be watching. It was a crazy night and only adds to my fascination with the white South Africans.
We had a great time in Pemba. Went scuba diving and met some great people - particularly, a couple girls from New York who shared in a couple of good nights with us. Of all the places we’ve been, I would love to come back to Mozambique. I would love to rent an SUV with a tent on top and drive along the coast. It’s beautiful and I didn’t see half of what the country has to offer.
That’s kind of the last couple of weeks in a nutshell. Check out Dona’s blog –it also has links to her pictures.
I’m off to Moshi tomorrow to volunteer. They have a number of programs and I’m going to pop round to each and find out which would be best for my skills and education. There is one organization that focuses on female genital mutilation so am hoping I can do something there.
So, having not written in weeks, I am going to work backwards. We are currently in the very small town of Babati in Tanzania. Dona had met someone who runs a tourism company out of Dar es Salaam and is chief of police here. We are surrounded by national parks here and went on a safari yesterday to Tarangire National Park which, during this time, has the highest concentration of wild animals than any other park. It is also the one less frequented by tourists so is much less crowded than the others. It was amazing. As soon as we entered the park we drove into a group of zebras. There were hundreds in the park so they were a common site throughout the day. We saw elephants, giraffes, wart hogs, buffalo, impalas, ostriches, and a whole host of other animals that I can't remember at the moment. The most exciting part of the day were the lions. We happened upon a female lying in the shade of a tree just near a small herd of elephants. As we approached I kept asking why she wasn't going for the baby elephant and why the grown elephants weren't more concerned. Turns out, they were. As we sat and watched the mother elephant went over to the lion who quickly moved to the other side of the tree. The elephants all grouped together at that point with the little ones in the middle of the pack. The mother elephant stomped towards the lion who jumped away and started walking towards us. As the lion did so the elephant let out an almighty noise. It was incredible. The lion moved along side our truck and I could see her chin was bloody - maybe an earlier lunch? As she passed she made a small growling noise. All the while the group of elephants never broke. We didn't stay around long enough to see what else happened but it was incredible. Got it on video too! On the way out of the park we passed a few more lions that were lounging in the sun. They are truly incredible animals and to see them in the wild is wonderful. It was definitely in the top five highlights of trip.
Also ranking in the top five was our recent trip to Zanibar. It was where we spent the last week. Zanibar is a fantastic blend of cultures and history. It has a very strong Islamic base because of the Arabs that settled there and set it up as a major trade hub. It is famous particularly for the slave trading that took place. The Arabic culture is combined with the Swahili culture and offers unique traditions, food and atmosphere because of it. We arrived on the island a couple of days before the start of Ramadan and it was interesting to see how everyone had to respect those specific traditions. We couldn’t even drink water in public during the day. Other than the amazing architecture, food, and shopping, the true highlight for us was swimming with dolphins. And I don’t mean, going to Sea World, putting on a life vest and jumping into a tank. I mean, hopping into a small fishing boat grabbing some snorkel gear and heading out to the open ocean. It didn’t take long to find a pod of dolphins. You could see their fins and backs pop up out of the water. I was a little scared at first but with the men frantically yelling at us to get in the water I didn’t have too much time to think about that. Once in the water and able to see below the surface was like a little kid squealing with excitement. There was about 16-20 dolphins all swimming around and under us. They were smaller than the dolphins we have in sea world but just as beautiful and elegant. They would swim with us and then go off deeper into the ocean. The tides are crazy on the east coast of Zanibar and low tide goes out for what seems like miles. The tide was going at during our trip so the dolphins were heading to deeper water. When they did this we would have to climb back in the boat and the driver would frantically chase them, yelling at us to go when the time was right. On one of our last interactions with the dolphins there was a group on the bottom, about 30-40 ft down. It looked like one had caught a fish and was eating it. About eight other dolphins gathered round too and it looked almost like a feeding frenzy you see with sharks but without the intensity. Eventually, I realized that a few of them were bringing the fish up to the surface and when it got closer I could tell it was a blow fish and they were playing with it! They were using it as a balloon almost, each taking a turn to gently push it up towards it. They brought the blow fish within a few feet of us. It was amazing and I was laughing into my snorkel. I’m sure them men on the boat thought I was psychotic listening to the cackles coming from below the water. I’ve never felt such amazement in my life. Dolphins are so intelligent and playful. I could have spent hours in the water with them. Unfortunately, it was cold and they kept going out into deeper water. We felt like we were hunting them so decided to let them be and go into shore a snorkel among the coral. It was one of the most amazing things I have ever done.
Our time before Zanibar was really all about traveling to get to Dar es Salaam from Mozambique. That actually took us a bit more time than we expected. We crossed at one of the most remote border crossings from Mozambique and getting there would have been near impossible had it not been for the kindness of some South Africans. We hitch hiked from Pemba and were lucky enough to be picked up by a group of SA guys. They took us up to there “compound” in Mocimboa do Praia and offered us a room to stay. They were with an oil company that had a place there but their main camp was in a place called Palma – where we were heading to cross the border. They said they would arrange for a truck to take us there in the morning. We paid for nothing – even the huge meal they had the cooks prepare for us. When we were dropped off in Palma, we sat waiting for a ride to the border but after an hour with no luck we began to realize it would be more difficult than we first thought. One SA guy stopped and told us although he wasn’t going to the border if we were still here when he got back he would arrange something for us. In the meantime, he suggested we go to the oil company main camp and ask them if anyone was going. So, Dona headed over and about 10 minutes later she came around the corner and gave me the thumbs up.
Turned out there were 3 very bored SA guys who agreed to take us – and more importantly, their boss agreed to let them use the truck. Lucky thing for us because the road to the border was a dirt track that required the truck to be in 4 wheel drive the whole time. It took us about an hour and half to get there. Once there, we had to take a canoe across a large river. It was a comical experience. The ferry had sunk the week prior so we had no option but to go with the canoe/paddle option. Now, the clever thing is that when you cross over, the immigration office is 5 km down a dirt road. There was no organized transport. Luckily, we had spotted some vehicles along the river as we were crossing so we walked along the river to the vehicles. We asked one man if he could take us and he said yes, popped out of the truck and walked over to a huge bus, hopped in a revved up the engine. Dona and I looked at each other with amusement because the guy had passed about 10 smaller vehicles. Oh well, it was a ride. Turns out that it was a contracted bus for the oil guys. Didn’t know they would be so helpful to us. So we got to the immigration office, hitched a ride to the next town, traveled to every bank in this town to get money out and had one of the best dinners I’ve had all trip – fried chicken and garlic mashed potatoes.
I’d like to note that from our experience here I find South Africans even more intriguing than I did before. We had nothing but generosity, kindness and almost old school gentlemanly treatment from the SA men we met. They seem very open and willing to help and you wouldn’t think a bad thing about them. But then you really get to talk with them and that old school treatment of women is connected to an old school mentality that we are fragile, need to be taken care of, and can’t do things independently. There is also an underlying racism too. Although they would deny it (strictly speaking of the SA we have met on our trip) they say racist jokes and comments constantly. They also wouldn’t think of stopping to pick up a couple of black hitch hikers. But theirs is an experience and history that I couldn’t imagine. I just find them confusing and interesting.
When we were in Pemba, there was a party at the campsite we were staying at. It was the birthdays of two ex-pat South Africans and the place was just mobbed with them. I felt like I was watching a strange world through a window and at times felt like I shouldn’t be watching. It was a crazy night and only adds to my fascination with the white South Africans.
We had a great time in Pemba. Went scuba diving and met some great people - particularly, a couple girls from New York who shared in a couple of good nights with us. Of all the places we’ve been, I would love to come back to Mozambique. I would love to rent an SUV with a tent on top and drive along the coast. It’s beautiful and I didn’t see half of what the country has to offer.
That’s kind of the last couple of weeks in a nutshell. Check out Dona’s blog –it also has links to her pictures.
I’m off to Moshi tomorrow to volunteer. They have a number of programs and I’m going to pop round to each and find out which would be best for my skills and education. There is one organization that focuses on female genital mutilation so am hoping I can do something there.
Tuesday 26 August 2008
Never take the window seat on an African bus!
The new photo is of one of our many bus rides down Western Tanzania. 10 hours on a dirt road will do that to you! I took the photo to see what I looked like because Dona kept laughing and saying she couldn't wait until I saw myself. I didn't get the camera turned around all the way to look at the screen before I screamed and broke into hysterical laughter. Everyone on the bus was looking and laughing as well. Someone even offered me a tissue. Think I needed more than that!
Thought you all would like a laugh too!
Thought you all would like a laugh too!
Sunday 24 August 2008
Quick Update
Sorry for the absolute lack of communication. It's been an interesting few weeks and I haven't had much access to the internet. Let alone the time to do an extensive update. I don't have the time for one now either but I thought a quick message will do.
I'm in Mozambique! Pemba to be exact and it's paradise. I may never leave! Just kidding :) But with the white sand beaches, clear turquoise water, it will be difficult.
The people I was going to meet in Kigale, Rwanda, to discuss volunteering opportunities had to go out of town the entire week we had planned to get together. I took this and our inability to meet the previous time we were in Kigale as a sign that I shouldn't do it. So I decided to continue on traveling with Dona.
We wanted to go to Malawi which required 6 hard days travel through Western Tanzania. That was a trek that required mulitple daylong bus rides and staying in local villages. We finally reached Malawi and stayed in an animal reserve where herds of elephants ate right outside our hut in the evenings. We also had a few luxurious days on Lake Malawi - Nhataka Bay. I'd never seen a lake so clear. It really did look like the ocean. Went snorkelling and rock diving. Great fun until I found out the lake had Blizharia (schistosomiosus [sp?]) so we have medicine to take in three weeks time to kill the parasite and any eggs it laid in our organs. Nice!
We traveled south and decided to take the train across Monzambique so we headed in that direction. Made it to Cuamba and the town where the train took off in three days. Not bad we thought! The train was brilliant. Comfortable in our sleeping car. I slept for 3 of the 12 hour trip and read the rest of the way. Mozambique is beautiful. It has amazing mountains that made me think of Mark and Will and their climbing gear. (You guys would love those mountains!)
We ended up eventually at Ila de Mozambique, the capital back in the day when the Portugese colonized. That's right, they speak portugese here and pretty much no English. Ordering food at restaurants has been an adverture. Luckily we've had nothing horrid, yet! Ila was strange. Amazing old colonial buildings now suffering the effects of neglect and delapidation. It was pretty much desolate as well so we decided one day and one night was enough to experience the place. We did manage to see in our one night the traditional dance (Tofo I think). They paint their faces white. It was really cool. They had a dance that involved a jump rope and we decided to join them in this so got up and got in line. Turns out they don't want to make it easy for you and whippped the rope down and we couldn't escape without the rope slicing into our shoulders. After they finished we showed them how to do the limbo and after awhile everyone was chanting "how low can you go" bending under the rope. Memorable to say the least.
The next morning we headed to Pemba, our current location. We are hoping to arrange a scuba dive but I am getting over a cold so not sure if I'll be able to equalize. If not, just snorkelling for me. But with the clarity of the water that should be amazing anyway.
So on that quick note, I'll go. I've got some serious laying out to do. Wish you all could be here with me. Caio!
I'm in Mozambique! Pemba to be exact and it's paradise. I may never leave! Just kidding :) But with the white sand beaches, clear turquoise water, it will be difficult.
The people I was going to meet in Kigale, Rwanda, to discuss volunteering opportunities had to go out of town the entire week we had planned to get together. I took this and our inability to meet the previous time we were in Kigale as a sign that I shouldn't do it. So I decided to continue on traveling with Dona.
We wanted to go to Malawi which required 6 hard days travel through Western Tanzania. That was a trek that required mulitple daylong bus rides and staying in local villages. We finally reached Malawi and stayed in an animal reserve where herds of elephants ate right outside our hut in the evenings. We also had a few luxurious days on Lake Malawi - Nhataka Bay. I'd never seen a lake so clear. It really did look like the ocean. Went snorkelling and rock diving. Great fun until I found out the lake had Blizharia (schistosomiosus [sp?]) so we have medicine to take in three weeks time to kill the parasite and any eggs it laid in our organs. Nice!
We traveled south and decided to take the train across Monzambique so we headed in that direction. Made it to Cuamba and the town where the train took off in three days. Not bad we thought! The train was brilliant. Comfortable in our sleeping car. I slept for 3 of the 12 hour trip and read the rest of the way. Mozambique is beautiful. It has amazing mountains that made me think of Mark and Will and their climbing gear. (You guys would love those mountains!)
We ended up eventually at Ila de Mozambique, the capital back in the day when the Portugese colonized. That's right, they speak portugese here and pretty much no English. Ordering food at restaurants has been an adverture. Luckily we've had nothing horrid, yet! Ila was strange. Amazing old colonial buildings now suffering the effects of neglect and delapidation. It was pretty much desolate as well so we decided one day and one night was enough to experience the place. We did manage to see in our one night the traditional dance (Tofo I think). They paint their faces white. It was really cool. They had a dance that involved a jump rope and we decided to join them in this so got up and got in line. Turns out they don't want to make it easy for you and whippped the rope down and we couldn't escape without the rope slicing into our shoulders. After they finished we showed them how to do the limbo and after awhile everyone was chanting "how low can you go" bending under the rope. Memorable to say the least.
The next morning we headed to Pemba, our current location. We are hoping to arrange a scuba dive but I am getting over a cold so not sure if I'll be able to equalize. If not, just snorkelling for me. But with the clarity of the water that should be amazing anyway.
So on that quick note, I'll go. I've got some serious laying out to do. Wish you all could be here with me. Caio!
Saturday 2 August 2008
One more thing about the hike...
I was so tired last night when I was writing the blog, I forgot to tell you that on the way down from the volcanoes, we stopped where we had heard the gorrillas on the way up. They had crossed the trail and were eating on the other side now. We could see the stalks moving as they were being torn apart and eaten by the group. Then, suddenly th guide said "There!" We almost climbed oevr each other to see. But all I could see was a bit of black fur from the elbow. It was a silverback he said. This group had several. As we weren't on the gorrilla tour he said we had to keep going. Disappointed I walked on. Then, he spotted another silverback. I slid down the hill to see as best as best as possible. Again, I could only see the side of the gorrilla. Then he got up to move to a more heavily vegetated area right through a clearing. I saw his profile first and my mouth fell open. I had no idea they were as big as they were. This was another silverback and he was the most majestic beautiful thing I had ever seen. My heart leapt into my throat as I saw his infamously grey colored back and huge hind legs. It was the most amazing thing to see. To hear them growl and talk to each other was so powerful it made me realize how fragile I was and how easily he could kill me. This was a wild animal and we were in his territory. The guide made growling sounds that emulated what I was hearing from the gorrillas themselves. He said that it was sounds of friendship so they understood we were not harmful. We were there only a few minutes but the images in my mind will be with me forever. No wonder Dian Fossey fell in love with these animals and spent her life, literally, to protect them.
It was an amazing day.
I think I will write from my journal from now on as I keep leaving things out just writing off the cuff. I only have to catch you up on a few little things next time. Just know that we've survived our second day in the DRC. My family was able to successfully Western Union some money to me. Rwanda and the DRC do not accept foreign ATM cards, nor do they exchange travelers checks and it is hard to find somewhere that will exchange other African currencies. I have not had one penny in cash for the last 2 days and it's felt very strange. Excuse me if I repeat myself. Between my journal, personal e-mails and blogging I can't remember what I've written previously.
Will send a link to my photos when they are uploaded. Fingers crossed the hotel computers will be able to do it tonight.
Kwa heri!
It was an amazing day.
I think I will write from my journal from now on as I keep leaving things out just writing off the cuff. I only have to catch you up on a few little things next time. Just know that we've survived our second day in the DRC. My family was able to successfully Western Union some money to me. Rwanda and the DRC do not accept foreign ATM cards, nor do they exchange travelers checks and it is hard to find somewhere that will exchange other African currencies. I have not had one penny in cash for the last 2 days and it's felt very strange. Excuse me if I repeat myself. Between my journal, personal e-mails and blogging I can't remember what I've written previously.
Will send a link to my photos when they are uploaded. Fingers crossed the hotel computers will be able to do it tonight.
Kwa heri!
Friday 1 August 2008
Hello from the DRC!
That's right. We decided to "pop" over to the Democratic Republic of Congo! We were staying right by the border in Gisenyi, Rwanda, so decided to come over to Goma, DRC. There are so many UN workers here. I think I've seen every UN department logo on cars and trucks that have passed me. If I wanted to stay here, I could just walk door to door and odds would be that I would get a volunteer position by the day's end.
(Side note - you must forgive the poor spelling and all the errors in my posts. The keys stick and sometimes the keyboard is laid out completely differently than at home. Makes perfection difficult and we all know how I feel about that!)
We've, again, had a pretty amazing few days. I am meeting with the Kigali organization next week so Dona and I decided to head over to Eastern Rwanda to the Volcanoes National Park. We had hoped to get a permit to see the gorillas. When we got to Ruhengeryi we had still not secured a $500 permit. We were going to show up at the park office in the morning with the cash and hope they had cancellations. Unfortunately, it was impossible to get the money. Rwanda does not have many ATM machines and the ones they have don't accept international cards. Most banks don't exchange travelers checks, nor do they exchange certain African currencies. We gave up on the gorrilla trekking and decided to just do a hike.
Obviously, we didn't book anything in advance and just showed up in the morning. A huge crowd had gathered. Most going off to see the gorrillas, others to do nature tours or hikes. We went to the counter to see what our options were and discovered that we needed a car to drive us 30 minutes to the start of the hike. Perfect! As we were trying to plead with him and convince him to give us a ride for free an American woman had overheard and told us of a man and his son doing the hike who had his own car. We made a bee line for him and he immediately agreed. Another American girl had heard this too, Laura, and asked if he could take her and her friend, Kris. He said that one would have to get in the back but he didn't mind. So we were all set.
We set off from a parking lot in a small village with one guide and two armed soldiers - to fend off any elephants or buffalo we might meet. It was 8:30 a.m. We were climbing the Mt. Bitoke Volcano with a summit of 3,711 m. I believe from where we were we would be climbing 1,500-2,000 m. It started off as a nice easy hike through farms. Wepassed through fields of what looked like daisies. Turns out it was the flower used to create insect repellant. They crush the flowers in Rwanda then send it off to America where it is made into insect repellant. The problem is that Rwanda can't afford to buy back the final product. Funny how things work.
After about an hour or so we arrived at a brick wall that signified the edge of the national park. Climbing over the wall I realized the terraine changed drammatically. We literally walked from field to rain forest. It was cool and the path slightly muddy. It had also changed from being relatively flat to quite steep. After about another hour we made it to a sitting area where we took a break. This was near where Dian Fossey is buried and did her research on the gorillas.
We had a diverse group and I didn't know how far they would be able to go. From the looks of the volcano, it was going to be a killer hike. I had no idea at that time how difficult it would be.
From the rest stop, the steep part began. There were no switchbacks, only straight up. The path had now become really muddy and with my feet in my sandles with socks, it wasn't a clean experience. I also didn't have a walking stick. I had opted out at the beginning. I was beginning to reget that decision. Luckily, we are with people who know what they are doing and within 3 minutes, a porter had fashioned the perfect walking stick for me from the local brush. I would come to value that stick as much as my water and the food I would so desperatley need later.
During our hike, the guide stopped by some antelope tracks. You could clearly see the pool of blood in one of the imprints. Poachers. He called in the finding to his headquarters and we moved on. I was surprised that poachers would still be practicing with all the work going on in the area. Particularly doing it so close to the regularly used tourist trails.
Further up the volcano, the guide stopped again. Gorrillas! They were just off to the right of the trail and you could hear them. Unfortunately, given the thick bruch of the forest, we couldn't see them. We waited a few minutes but couldn't see them. We hoped maybe on the way down we would be luckier.
About 20 minutes after this, the group split. Some could go on no longer. They decided to go back with one of the soldiers. This was good and bad. Good because we could go faster, bad because we could go faster. I was really struggling with the altitude and given my eating habits, had obviously not had enough breakfast. We had also been told this was going to be an easy and quick hike. I had only brought a small bag of peanuts and a small packet of biscuits. I was going to need a lot more given that we had already hiked for 4 hours and we were not at the top.
It was really hard. Not to mention that stinging nettles were all over the place and I had already been stung on my arm. It hurt so much more than any vaccination shot I have received. And that was through a long sleeved shirt! So as we were slipping with almost every step, I was trying not to touch any of the vegetation on my sides. I could not focus on what was around me, I had to focus on where to place my foot to avoid slipping. It was really hard.
Finally, though we made it to the top. The last 50 ft were probably the most difficult. I was moving like a 100 year old woman. I sat on the bench and just felt sick. The girls that shared the car with us had so much food and handed me a cracker with avocado and tomato. I inhaled it and thought I was in heaven. Then they pulled out the peanut butter. I didn't talk, I just stuffed food in my face. Almost immediately I felt better. It was then I realized just how beautiful the surroundings were.
We had hiked to the top of the volcano that now had a crater lake at the top. We peered over the lake into the DRC. Who knew just a few days later, I would be in that country too?! We didn't stay up there long as it was getting late. Going down the mountain was much quicker than going up. It was also much more fun and muddy.
I cannot express how muddy, and slippery the path was. I was trying so hard not to slip and get dirty. I don't think it was more than 5 minutes on the decent before I found myself sitting in an inch of wet dirt. I fell so many more times I can't count. The only other time I remember falling was when my hand went right into a prickily plant that left stickers in my fingers. I was clinging to my stick so hard that now have huge blisters. I am a huge walking stick fan now.
The decent was quick compared to our ascent. We were literally jumping down the mountain and the mud actually helped cushion our knees. I almost lost my shoes on several occasions as they would get stuck in the mud as my body momentum kept going. It was so funny. All of us fell - except for the guide and soldier. We were a mess. I also kept standing in buffalo poop so everyone began calling them out for me.
Dona had only her sandles that have seen better days. She had had to glue the soles back to the shoe the day before the hike. They didn't make it. Half way down the mountain she had to take them off and go barefoot. It was a funny sight and I don't think I have seen dirtier feet on anyone at the end.
So, 7 hours after we set off, we got back to the car. 3:30 p.m. What a day. Iw as exhausted and couldn't wait to take a warm shower and have a beer. We were headed to Gisenyi though so it would have to wait a few hours. The Father/Son duo were going to this town so offered a free ride. We were dropped off in town and went to the hotel the Lonely Planet suggested. After a bit of a hassle, we got into our basic room to find a super cold shower. I almost cried. I managed to wash off a bit. I decided then that we were going to stay in a high end place the next night. Which we did. I blew a week's budget on a fabulous hotel.
Of course, even a day lying by the pool has adventure for us. But I will leave that for another post. It's late and I have to go to bed. I also think that super long posts are a bit much for the reader. Wish us well here in the DRC. I beginning to think we have angels walking with us keeping us safe. Let's hope it stays that way...
(Side note - you must forgive the poor spelling and all the errors in my posts. The keys stick and sometimes the keyboard is laid out completely differently than at home. Makes perfection difficult and we all know how I feel about that!)
We've, again, had a pretty amazing few days. I am meeting with the Kigali organization next week so Dona and I decided to head over to Eastern Rwanda to the Volcanoes National Park. We had hoped to get a permit to see the gorillas. When we got to Ruhengeryi we had still not secured a $500 permit. We were going to show up at the park office in the morning with the cash and hope they had cancellations. Unfortunately, it was impossible to get the money. Rwanda does not have many ATM machines and the ones they have don't accept international cards. Most banks don't exchange travelers checks, nor do they exchange certain African currencies. We gave up on the gorrilla trekking and decided to just do a hike.
Obviously, we didn't book anything in advance and just showed up in the morning. A huge crowd had gathered. Most going off to see the gorrillas, others to do nature tours or hikes. We went to the counter to see what our options were and discovered that we needed a car to drive us 30 minutes to the start of the hike. Perfect! As we were trying to plead with him and convince him to give us a ride for free an American woman had overheard and told us of a man and his son doing the hike who had his own car. We made a bee line for him and he immediately agreed. Another American girl had heard this too, Laura, and asked if he could take her and her friend, Kris. He said that one would have to get in the back but he didn't mind. So we were all set.
We set off from a parking lot in a small village with one guide and two armed soldiers - to fend off any elephants or buffalo we might meet. It was 8:30 a.m. We were climbing the Mt. Bitoke Volcano with a summit of 3,711 m. I believe from where we were we would be climbing 1,500-2,000 m. It started off as a nice easy hike through farms. Wepassed through fields of what looked like daisies. Turns out it was the flower used to create insect repellant. They crush the flowers in Rwanda then send it off to America where it is made into insect repellant. The problem is that Rwanda can't afford to buy back the final product. Funny how things work.
After about an hour or so we arrived at a brick wall that signified the edge of the national park. Climbing over the wall I realized the terraine changed drammatically. We literally walked from field to rain forest. It was cool and the path slightly muddy. It had also changed from being relatively flat to quite steep. After about another hour we made it to a sitting area where we took a break. This was near where Dian Fossey is buried and did her research on the gorillas.
We had a diverse group and I didn't know how far they would be able to go. From the looks of the volcano, it was going to be a killer hike. I had no idea at that time how difficult it would be.
From the rest stop, the steep part began. There were no switchbacks, only straight up. The path had now become really muddy and with my feet in my sandles with socks, it wasn't a clean experience. I also didn't have a walking stick. I had opted out at the beginning. I was beginning to reget that decision. Luckily, we are with people who know what they are doing and within 3 minutes, a porter had fashioned the perfect walking stick for me from the local brush. I would come to value that stick as much as my water and the food I would so desperatley need later.
During our hike, the guide stopped by some antelope tracks. You could clearly see the pool of blood in one of the imprints. Poachers. He called in the finding to his headquarters and we moved on. I was surprised that poachers would still be practicing with all the work going on in the area. Particularly doing it so close to the regularly used tourist trails.
Further up the volcano, the guide stopped again. Gorrillas! They were just off to the right of the trail and you could hear them. Unfortunately, given the thick bruch of the forest, we couldn't see them. We waited a few minutes but couldn't see them. We hoped maybe on the way down we would be luckier.
About 20 minutes after this, the group split. Some could go on no longer. They decided to go back with one of the soldiers. This was good and bad. Good because we could go faster, bad because we could go faster. I was really struggling with the altitude and given my eating habits, had obviously not had enough breakfast. We had also been told this was going to be an easy and quick hike. I had only brought a small bag of peanuts and a small packet of biscuits. I was going to need a lot more given that we had already hiked for 4 hours and we were not at the top.
It was really hard. Not to mention that stinging nettles were all over the place and I had already been stung on my arm. It hurt so much more than any vaccination shot I have received. And that was through a long sleeved shirt! So as we were slipping with almost every step, I was trying not to touch any of the vegetation on my sides. I could not focus on what was around me, I had to focus on where to place my foot to avoid slipping. It was really hard.
Finally, though we made it to the top. The last 50 ft were probably the most difficult. I was moving like a 100 year old woman. I sat on the bench and just felt sick. The girls that shared the car with us had so much food and handed me a cracker with avocado and tomato. I inhaled it and thought I was in heaven. Then they pulled out the peanut butter. I didn't talk, I just stuffed food in my face. Almost immediately I felt better. It was then I realized just how beautiful the surroundings were.
We had hiked to the top of the volcano that now had a crater lake at the top. We peered over the lake into the DRC. Who knew just a few days later, I would be in that country too?! We didn't stay up there long as it was getting late. Going down the mountain was much quicker than going up. It was also much more fun and muddy.
I cannot express how muddy, and slippery the path was. I was trying so hard not to slip and get dirty. I don't think it was more than 5 minutes on the decent before I found myself sitting in an inch of wet dirt. I fell so many more times I can't count. The only other time I remember falling was when my hand went right into a prickily plant that left stickers in my fingers. I was clinging to my stick so hard that now have huge blisters. I am a huge walking stick fan now.
The decent was quick compared to our ascent. We were literally jumping down the mountain and the mud actually helped cushion our knees. I almost lost my shoes on several occasions as they would get stuck in the mud as my body momentum kept going. It was so funny. All of us fell - except for the guide and soldier. We were a mess. I also kept standing in buffalo poop so everyone began calling them out for me.
Dona had only her sandles that have seen better days. She had had to glue the soles back to the shoe the day before the hike. They didn't make it. Half way down the mountain she had to take them off and go barefoot. It was a funny sight and I don't think I have seen dirtier feet on anyone at the end.
So, 7 hours after we set off, we got back to the car. 3:30 p.m. What a day. Iw as exhausted and couldn't wait to take a warm shower and have a beer. We were headed to Gisenyi though so it would have to wait a few hours. The Father/Son duo were going to this town so offered a free ride. We were dropped off in town and went to the hotel the Lonely Planet suggested. After a bit of a hassle, we got into our basic room to find a super cold shower. I almost cried. I managed to wash off a bit. I decided then that we were going to stay in a high end place the next night. Which we did. I blew a week's budget on a fabulous hotel.
Of course, even a day lying by the pool has adventure for us. But I will leave that for another post. It's late and I have to go to bed. I also think that super long posts are a bit much for the reader. Wish us well here in the DRC. I beginning to think we have angels walking with us keeping us safe. Let's hope it stays that way...
Sunday 27 July 2008
What an amazing few weeks!
I sat in the internet place for an hour yesterday catching you all up on the last cuple of weeks of my adventure only to have my computer shut down and lose it all. I was so frustrated I needed to go for a walk and give up completely for the day. So here goes again...
After white rafting we headed up to Murchison Falls in the north of Uganda. We had a night in Kampala, the capital of Uganda on our way up there. I have never seen such a packed busy town in my life. It was heaving with people the entire night. We stayed at a local hotel that wasn't too bad. I have to admit that I have had a difficult time adjusting to the ways and standards of the backpacker life. I like a clean bed and hot shower. I haven't had a "bucket shower" yet which has left me to go without a shower for three days. Thank goodness for wet wipes!
Murchison Falls is not an easy place to get to if you are not hiring a private car from Kampala or the nearest main town to the National Park, Masindi. The girls decided they would try to hitch hike. I was really not keen on this idea but thought I wouldn't worry about it until the last minute. We got to the bus station in Kampala at 9:30a.m. for the bus that was scheduled to leave at 10:00a.m. Well, we waited, and waited...and waited for the bus to arrive. It'd didn't arrive until 11:30a.m. and didn't leave the bus station until 12:30p.m. No buses leave without them being 100% full, and at $8 USD per gallon it's not really surprising. We stopped at the gas station on the way out of town and it cost them over $600 USD to fill up the bus. Not much of a profit margin. So be thankful that your gas prices aren't that bad and if they were, at least you are earning more than $300 per month.
We met a British girl, Sophie, who just graduated from St. Andrews at the bus station who was also going up to the Falls and staying at the same campsite we were. She had planned to get a private car from Masindi so I was debating on whether to share the ride with her. Once there though I decided to stay with the girls because the private car was going to cost about $75. Because the bis had left so late we didn't arrive in Masindi until almost 5p.m. but we thought we might still be able to catch a ride so we walked about a mile or so up the road to the turn off to the park. No luck after about an hour later and with the rain clouds coming in we decided it best to stay in town. I was not looking forward to this as the town looked like it didn't have anywhere even halfway decent to stay. We found a local place just before the heavens opened and it started to pour. We had two single rooms (I shared with Dona), both costing us $5 together. This was the place with the bucket shower that I opted out of. We were starving so put on our ponchos and made a run for the nearest restaurant. Local place, again, beans and rice for dinner. We're starting to joke now that Dona is going to hold an intervention to get me to eat more. I'll definitely be the former shadow of myself by the time I get home. Thankfully they have beer so I am getting some calories!
After a bad night's sleep - Africans are up all night chatting and listening to music - we got up early to make our way to the campsite 75k from where we were. We walked back to the spot we had picked the night before where there were now tons of motorbikes wanting to give us a ride to the park entrance. They wouldn't leave us alone and were ruining our ability to have passerbys stop so we decided to walk. I didn't know at the time, but that day would involve a lot of walking! We walked maybe a mile before a salt truck stopped and we hopped in the back with some other locals. About five minutes later he stopped at a fork in the road. He was headed to the right and we were headed to the left. Again a motorbike tried to get us to go with him and also someone on a peddle bike. So, we waled again. This time for a really long time. Just when I thought I couldn't walk anymore, we heard something coming behind us. We all stopped and waited for whatever it was to come around the corner. Slowly it came to reveal a tractor pulling a trailor. He stopped and we hopped in. He let Dona and Lara drive the bus which was loads of fun. We felt like we were on a float in a town parade because kids emerged out of nowhere and all the people would stop what they were doing and wave. I now know what it feels like to be a celebrity. All eyes on you and people gathering just to look at you. So after Lara managed not to kill us as she dove down a hill at an alarming rate for a tractor and weaving very closely to the ditches, we made it to the tractor's final destination. Unfortunately it wasn't at the park gate. Luckily a truck stopped and picked us up. He dropped us about a half mile from the gate so we just walked. The staff and the gate office were shocked to see three white girls with their packs just walking up the road. We told them we were going to keep on walking and they wouldn't let us because of the animals. We said we'd be fine and as I looked down the road I saw about 20 baboons blocking the road ahead. "I guess we'll sit and wait then!"
We waited for awhile actually because it seems that Muzunguz (white people) aren't very willing to help others out. The whole day big SUVs or minivans half empt would fly by us, noone in the car even looking out the window at us. It must come down to fear. I think with the media today, particularly in the States, we are fed nothing but fear mongering messages that can't help but seap into the psyche. I'm recognizing it in myself and trying to let go of it. Such amazing experience are missed out by most because of it. Not to mention leaving three women on a dirt road in the middle of rural Uganda. No wonder they couldn't look at us. Anyway, after several people drove off without so much as a glance a wonderful Indian couple stopped. They only had room for one so we decided to split up. Just then another car stuffed to the roof with melons and other fruit stopped and agreed to take two. I lucked out as I got the nice airconditioned SUV. Dona and Lara however had to sit on each other's laps squished with all the produce. They we stiff and dusty by the time we met up at the campsite.
The campsite had an increidble view of the Nile. It seemed that we had had a number of wonderful views of the Nile up to that point. Thankfully, the Nile was calm here and the boat ride we were taking in the morning wouldn't involve helmets, lifevests and paddles! As it was a national park we were to see loads of animals on the boat as well as seeing the water fall. I was looking forward to it. That night as we were sitting having a beer in the outside restaurant/bar area we saw a few warthogs emerge from the brush. I hadn't ever seen one outside of the Lion King. It was amazing and I had to pinch myself several times to make sure I wasn't dreaming. A bit later Dona looked and said, "Oh, here comes another warthog." I turned around and as I was leaping out of my seat I said, "That isn't a warthog, it's a hippo." And sure enough this huge hippo was walking through the campsite. I backed away quickly assessing where the water was to make sure I didn't get inbetween it and the hippo, but the other toursits grabbed there cameras and ingnoring the signs started following it and taking flash photos. I waited for the roar and then chaos. But the hippop just went on its way. Now I really had to pinch myself!
The boat ride was lovely the next day. We had talked our way onto the boat as it was fully booked too but as it would take us most of the day to get back to Masindi we didn't want to wait for the afternoon trip. Seems we've been getting lucky like this. The campsite the night before was totally booked but seeing as how we were out in the middle of nowhere they had to make something work. I shared a tent with Sophie that had a proper bed and was very comfortable. Again I had lucked out becasue Lara and Dona had to share one of the staff's personal backpacking tent which he had erected right next to the hippo path. It's the first time I saw Dona scared!
After the boat ride we were able to get a ride back to town with two old guys, one from England and the other from Australia. They were headed to Kampala, which was where Lara needed to get to the following day for a flight out to S. Africa so she went on with them and left Dona and I in Masindi. Another night in the small dusty town. Which by the way had more churches and western religious aid places than I had seen before. Seventh Day Adventist, Jehovah Witness, Christians. It's crazy the number of churches here. I'll delve into my views on all of this at another point but I think one of the main problems in these African countries is that the people are being told through many different vehicles to be conformists, do what has always been done, not to question. And will political, social and economic situations really ever change if we're all followers?
So, we stayed at a bit nicer place that had a warm shower! We met an American guy that night going down to Lake Bunyonyi where we were headnig so we decided to travel together in the morning. At breakfast, we discovered he was a poly sci major at UCSB and aspired to be a lobbyist. I groaned at this and said - given that he had long hair a shaggy beard and dressed like a hippy - at least you'll be doing it for the right side. He then said, well actually I'm a Republican. Again, groan. His reason - less government in personal lives. Now that got to me because I have not felt like my rights and privacy have been more abused and violated than in the last 7 years. Whatever! Dona and I had decided to try to hitch hike most of the way down to lake and I knew that this guy's true nature would come through his hippy facade once we got on the road. He didn't last after the first vehicle! We had been dropped off at a little town. Once we sat down of course the kids came over. Dona and I gave out star stickers to them and played around for a bit. I love these parts of our trip. To see the "real" Africa and be able to have a positive interaction is amazing. To bad for all the Muzungus in their Land Rovers not even looking out the window at these people.
We actually took a minivan to the next big town. Scott, our lovely friend, had decided to pay the exhorbitant price to get to Fort Portal - our destination for the day. We however grabbed our bags and walked up the road to hitch hike. We actually stopped and had lunch and a beer, cleaned up a bit before resting our things in the shade by the road. A few kids again came over along with some of their family members. We played, Dona juggled for them and blew on the pieces of grass so it make that sqeeking sound. The kids thought that was hilarious. We eventually got picked up by a school teacher and a woman who runs a micro finance project. They could only take us up the road a few minutes. He dropped us right at the bus/taxi area so we were mobbed as soon as we got out. This stresses both of us out so we just started walking up the road. It feels like you can't even think when you're being hounded like that. Schools were just getting out and we must have been in school alley because the streets were mobbed with students. Again, we were the hottest thing to have hit the town so all eyes were on us. When we stopped to drop our bags kids came running up to the fence to look at us. We went over to shake their hands which caused even more excitement and more kids to run over to us. It's such a strange feeling to be something so curious. Some kids are even a bit scared of us. One of the minivan taxis stopped and said he was going to Fort Portal anyway so gave us a good price. We hopped in, in the front seat which isn't typical. So we set off. About half an hour later we come upon another minivan that had broken down and all the people were standing around. As we pulled up guess who we saw, yep, our friend, Scott. Isn't the universe wonderful! I thought it was so funny that he was so head strong about getting to town earlier and didn't want to "waste" time hitching. We'd had a great time while he paid too much to sit on the side of the road for an hour. He said that he didn't mind paying more and for chilling on the side of the road not to have the hassle. Playing with local kids and shaking hands with tons of school kids isn't my idea of a hassle. It's genuine experiences that are making my trip!
From Fort Portal we took a bus straight down to Kagale - the main town by the lake. It was a standard African bus ride. We waited for two hours for the bus to fill then it stopped for gas then it stopped every few minutes to let people off. No big deal really. We sat behind three Muzungus, however, who thought it was awful. They didn't shut up talking the entire 8 hours of the trip either. I don't know why I'm beginning not to like hanging out with other white travelers. It seems like they want western comforts more than they want to appreciate the realities around them. Africa isn't just about snapping pictures of beautiful scenery, people and animals. It's about interacting with everything and experiencing the country for what it is.
We made it to town and then took motorbikes over to the campsite by the lake. It was absolutely beautiful with terraced fields on all sides of us. It was cold too. Really cold. My long pants were filthy from the tractor ride to the Falls and had been strapped to the outside of my bag because they were so bad. We did laundry and decided to stay for a couple of days. It was nice to relax for a bit. Traveling is exhausting, particularly how we do it.
So after a few days relaxing we decided to head to Kigali, Rwanda. Goal: not to pay anything for transportation. We did it all but for $.75 to get back to the main town from the lake. I will say though, that we walked the uphill part with our bags! It was a good two miles. I have pictures but it's really difficult to upload them. Hopefully I'll get them up soon. From Kagale, we hopped in a big rig - new with lots of space. It was a great ride to the Rwandan border. We walked across the border, exchanged some money and decided to walk a bit further up the road to get away from the taxis. As we were walking up the road we gathered a crowd - nothing different from Uganda. A local guy came up to em and I thought he was speaking in his native language wehn all of a sudden it hit me - I can understand him! They speak French in Rwanda?! You'd think I would have know this from the fact I had just exchanged my Ugandan Shillings into Rwandan Francs!
I fell in love with the country on that first few hundred feet in from the border. This only grew as the day went on. We sat on a hill and waited for the next car to come by. Obviously we had drawn a crowd and between my dismal French, Dona's limited Swahili and the local's broken English, we had a fun conversation. Nothing like laughing together in total confusion. Eventually an old Petrolium truck that was definitely past it use by date stoped and picked us up. It was so slow but I guess was better than walking - to begin with. As we came up to a police check point the driver had Dona lay down with her head behind his seat. They could only take three people in his truck, not four. He already had a passenger when he picked us up. So Dona lay down and we stopped for the police. He looked at me and was obviously confused. He walked around to the driver's side and opened the door. Dona leaned her head forward and made an "Oh sh*t" face. I started to laugh because I couldn't imagine how the police officer wouldn't see her. But he didn't, shut the door and we were on our very slow way again. After about an hour and a half later we had only gone 25k. We couldn't take it anymore so we asked him to stop. We got out and started walking (is there a theme?). We actually walked faster than the truck. I'm not kidding, it was going that slow up hill. Once we flattened off, he took us over and we were left walking the rural hills of Rwanda. It was absolutely the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Again, I have pictures so just wait. Luckily we weren't alone. Even in the middle of nowhere we draw a crowd that just walks behind us giggling. We finally made to a little town that had taxis and restaurants. We sat and had a bbq'd banana and a beer - 720ml for $.75! The whole town stopped and was watching us. A group of women came over and we got up to shake their hands. Kids shyly peered over the wall, ducking over the wall when we looked over at them.
After this we decided to grab a beer while waiting on the side of the road which was only about 50 feet from the restaurant. The crowd watching us at the restaurant just moved over to where we sitting. A few people started chatting with us and we remembered we had a plastic bag of Waragi a local liqour made from bananas. We offered that over which made us instant friends. Dona played a local dance song on her cell phone and a few of us got up and were dancing. All of this tkaing place in the middle of the day in a rural Rwandan town on the top of a hill. Totally random but one of the most fabulous experiences of my life. A Red Cross truck stopped for us and we were waved off but what seemed like the majority of the town. We made it to Kigali safe and sound and I'm waiting to see about interviewing with the VP of Marketing for a micro finance company here. I would definitely like to stay in Rwanda for awhile. Kigali is expensive but a greta town that I feel at home in already. If I can't arrange the interview for tomorrow I will travel with Dona for the next couple of weeks to the national parks in Rwanda and then come back to Kigali. Fingers crossed something works out here. I love it!
Well, better go! Miss you all and wish you could experience this. Rwanda should definitely be on your list of places to visit. Until next time...
After white rafting we headed up to Murchison Falls in the north of Uganda. We had a night in Kampala, the capital of Uganda on our way up there. I have never seen such a packed busy town in my life. It was heaving with people the entire night. We stayed at a local hotel that wasn't too bad. I have to admit that I have had a difficult time adjusting to the ways and standards of the backpacker life. I like a clean bed and hot shower. I haven't had a "bucket shower" yet which has left me to go without a shower for three days. Thank goodness for wet wipes!
Murchison Falls is not an easy place to get to if you are not hiring a private car from Kampala or the nearest main town to the National Park, Masindi. The girls decided they would try to hitch hike. I was really not keen on this idea but thought I wouldn't worry about it until the last minute. We got to the bus station in Kampala at 9:30a.m. for the bus that was scheduled to leave at 10:00a.m. Well, we waited, and waited...and waited for the bus to arrive. It'd didn't arrive until 11:30a.m. and didn't leave the bus station until 12:30p.m. No buses leave without them being 100% full, and at $8 USD per gallon it's not really surprising. We stopped at the gas station on the way out of town and it cost them over $600 USD to fill up the bus. Not much of a profit margin. So be thankful that your gas prices aren't that bad and if they were, at least you are earning more than $300 per month.
We met a British girl, Sophie, who just graduated from St. Andrews at the bus station who was also going up to the Falls and staying at the same campsite we were. She had planned to get a private car from Masindi so I was debating on whether to share the ride with her. Once there though I decided to stay with the girls because the private car was going to cost about $75. Because the bis had left so late we didn't arrive in Masindi until almost 5p.m. but we thought we might still be able to catch a ride so we walked about a mile or so up the road to the turn off to the park. No luck after about an hour later and with the rain clouds coming in we decided it best to stay in town. I was not looking forward to this as the town looked like it didn't have anywhere even halfway decent to stay. We found a local place just before the heavens opened and it started to pour. We had two single rooms (I shared with Dona), both costing us $5 together. This was the place with the bucket shower that I opted out of. We were starving so put on our ponchos and made a run for the nearest restaurant. Local place, again, beans and rice for dinner. We're starting to joke now that Dona is going to hold an intervention to get me to eat more. I'll definitely be the former shadow of myself by the time I get home. Thankfully they have beer so I am getting some calories!
After a bad night's sleep - Africans are up all night chatting and listening to music - we got up early to make our way to the campsite 75k from where we were. We walked back to the spot we had picked the night before where there were now tons of motorbikes wanting to give us a ride to the park entrance. They wouldn't leave us alone and were ruining our ability to have passerbys stop so we decided to walk. I didn't know at the time, but that day would involve a lot of walking! We walked maybe a mile before a salt truck stopped and we hopped in the back with some other locals. About five minutes later he stopped at a fork in the road. He was headed to the right and we were headed to the left. Again a motorbike tried to get us to go with him and also someone on a peddle bike. So, we waled again. This time for a really long time. Just when I thought I couldn't walk anymore, we heard something coming behind us. We all stopped and waited for whatever it was to come around the corner. Slowly it came to reveal a tractor pulling a trailor. He stopped and we hopped in. He let Dona and Lara drive the bus which was loads of fun. We felt like we were on a float in a town parade because kids emerged out of nowhere and all the people would stop what they were doing and wave. I now know what it feels like to be a celebrity. All eyes on you and people gathering just to look at you. So after Lara managed not to kill us as she dove down a hill at an alarming rate for a tractor and weaving very closely to the ditches, we made it to the tractor's final destination. Unfortunately it wasn't at the park gate. Luckily a truck stopped and picked us up. He dropped us about a half mile from the gate so we just walked. The staff and the gate office were shocked to see three white girls with their packs just walking up the road. We told them we were going to keep on walking and they wouldn't let us because of the animals. We said we'd be fine and as I looked down the road I saw about 20 baboons blocking the road ahead. "I guess we'll sit and wait then!"
We waited for awhile actually because it seems that Muzunguz (white people) aren't very willing to help others out. The whole day big SUVs or minivans half empt would fly by us, noone in the car even looking out the window at us. It must come down to fear. I think with the media today, particularly in the States, we are fed nothing but fear mongering messages that can't help but seap into the psyche. I'm recognizing it in myself and trying to let go of it. Such amazing experience are missed out by most because of it. Not to mention leaving three women on a dirt road in the middle of rural Uganda. No wonder they couldn't look at us. Anyway, after several people drove off without so much as a glance a wonderful Indian couple stopped. They only had room for one so we decided to split up. Just then another car stuffed to the roof with melons and other fruit stopped and agreed to take two. I lucked out as I got the nice airconditioned SUV. Dona and Lara however had to sit on each other's laps squished with all the produce. They we stiff and dusty by the time we met up at the campsite.
The campsite had an increidble view of the Nile. It seemed that we had had a number of wonderful views of the Nile up to that point. Thankfully, the Nile was calm here and the boat ride we were taking in the morning wouldn't involve helmets, lifevests and paddles! As it was a national park we were to see loads of animals on the boat as well as seeing the water fall. I was looking forward to it. That night as we were sitting having a beer in the outside restaurant/bar area we saw a few warthogs emerge from the brush. I hadn't ever seen one outside of the Lion King. It was amazing and I had to pinch myself several times to make sure I wasn't dreaming. A bit later Dona looked and said, "Oh, here comes another warthog." I turned around and as I was leaping out of my seat I said, "That isn't a warthog, it's a hippo." And sure enough this huge hippo was walking through the campsite. I backed away quickly assessing where the water was to make sure I didn't get inbetween it and the hippo, but the other toursits grabbed there cameras and ingnoring the signs started following it and taking flash photos. I waited for the roar and then chaos. But the hippop just went on its way. Now I really had to pinch myself!
The boat ride was lovely the next day. We had talked our way onto the boat as it was fully booked too but as it would take us most of the day to get back to Masindi we didn't want to wait for the afternoon trip. Seems we've been getting lucky like this. The campsite the night before was totally booked but seeing as how we were out in the middle of nowhere they had to make something work. I shared a tent with Sophie that had a proper bed and was very comfortable. Again I had lucked out becasue Lara and Dona had to share one of the staff's personal backpacking tent which he had erected right next to the hippo path. It's the first time I saw Dona scared!
After the boat ride we were able to get a ride back to town with two old guys, one from England and the other from Australia. They were headed to Kampala, which was where Lara needed to get to the following day for a flight out to S. Africa so she went on with them and left Dona and I in Masindi. Another night in the small dusty town. Which by the way had more churches and western religious aid places than I had seen before. Seventh Day Adventist, Jehovah Witness, Christians. It's crazy the number of churches here. I'll delve into my views on all of this at another point but I think one of the main problems in these African countries is that the people are being told through many different vehicles to be conformists, do what has always been done, not to question. And will political, social and economic situations really ever change if we're all followers?
So, we stayed at a bit nicer place that had a warm shower! We met an American guy that night going down to Lake Bunyonyi where we were headnig so we decided to travel together in the morning. At breakfast, we discovered he was a poly sci major at UCSB and aspired to be a lobbyist. I groaned at this and said - given that he had long hair a shaggy beard and dressed like a hippy - at least you'll be doing it for the right side. He then said, well actually I'm a Republican. Again, groan. His reason - less government in personal lives. Now that got to me because I have not felt like my rights and privacy have been more abused and violated than in the last 7 years. Whatever! Dona and I had decided to try to hitch hike most of the way down to lake and I knew that this guy's true nature would come through his hippy facade once we got on the road. He didn't last after the first vehicle! We had been dropped off at a little town. Once we sat down of course the kids came over. Dona and I gave out star stickers to them and played around for a bit. I love these parts of our trip. To see the "real" Africa and be able to have a positive interaction is amazing. To bad for all the Muzungus in their Land Rovers not even looking out the window at these people.
We actually took a minivan to the next big town. Scott, our lovely friend, had decided to pay the exhorbitant price to get to Fort Portal - our destination for the day. We however grabbed our bags and walked up the road to hitch hike. We actually stopped and had lunch and a beer, cleaned up a bit before resting our things in the shade by the road. A few kids again came over along with some of their family members. We played, Dona juggled for them and blew on the pieces of grass so it make that sqeeking sound. The kids thought that was hilarious. We eventually got picked up by a school teacher and a woman who runs a micro finance project. They could only take us up the road a few minutes. He dropped us right at the bus/taxi area so we were mobbed as soon as we got out. This stresses both of us out so we just started walking up the road. It feels like you can't even think when you're being hounded like that. Schools were just getting out and we must have been in school alley because the streets were mobbed with students. Again, we were the hottest thing to have hit the town so all eyes were on us. When we stopped to drop our bags kids came running up to the fence to look at us. We went over to shake their hands which caused even more excitement and more kids to run over to us. It's such a strange feeling to be something so curious. Some kids are even a bit scared of us. One of the minivan taxis stopped and said he was going to Fort Portal anyway so gave us a good price. We hopped in, in the front seat which isn't typical. So we set off. About half an hour later we come upon another minivan that had broken down and all the people were standing around. As we pulled up guess who we saw, yep, our friend, Scott. Isn't the universe wonderful! I thought it was so funny that he was so head strong about getting to town earlier and didn't want to "waste" time hitching. We'd had a great time while he paid too much to sit on the side of the road for an hour. He said that he didn't mind paying more and for chilling on the side of the road not to have the hassle. Playing with local kids and shaking hands with tons of school kids isn't my idea of a hassle. It's genuine experiences that are making my trip!
From Fort Portal we took a bus straight down to Kagale - the main town by the lake. It was a standard African bus ride. We waited for two hours for the bus to fill then it stopped for gas then it stopped every few minutes to let people off. No big deal really. We sat behind three Muzungus, however, who thought it was awful. They didn't shut up talking the entire 8 hours of the trip either. I don't know why I'm beginning not to like hanging out with other white travelers. It seems like they want western comforts more than they want to appreciate the realities around them. Africa isn't just about snapping pictures of beautiful scenery, people and animals. It's about interacting with everything and experiencing the country for what it is.
We made it to town and then took motorbikes over to the campsite by the lake. It was absolutely beautiful with terraced fields on all sides of us. It was cold too. Really cold. My long pants were filthy from the tractor ride to the Falls and had been strapped to the outside of my bag because they were so bad. We did laundry and decided to stay for a couple of days. It was nice to relax for a bit. Traveling is exhausting, particularly how we do it.
So after a few days relaxing we decided to head to Kigali, Rwanda. Goal: not to pay anything for transportation. We did it all but for $.75 to get back to the main town from the lake. I will say though, that we walked the uphill part with our bags! It was a good two miles. I have pictures but it's really difficult to upload them. Hopefully I'll get them up soon. From Kagale, we hopped in a big rig - new with lots of space. It was a great ride to the Rwandan border. We walked across the border, exchanged some money and decided to walk a bit further up the road to get away from the taxis. As we were walking up the road we gathered a crowd - nothing different from Uganda. A local guy came up to em and I thought he was speaking in his native language wehn all of a sudden it hit me - I can understand him! They speak French in Rwanda?! You'd think I would have know this from the fact I had just exchanged my Ugandan Shillings into Rwandan Francs!
I fell in love with the country on that first few hundred feet in from the border. This only grew as the day went on. We sat on a hill and waited for the next car to come by. Obviously we had drawn a crowd and between my dismal French, Dona's limited Swahili and the local's broken English, we had a fun conversation. Nothing like laughing together in total confusion. Eventually an old Petrolium truck that was definitely past it use by date stoped and picked us up. It was so slow but I guess was better than walking - to begin with. As we came up to a police check point the driver had Dona lay down with her head behind his seat. They could only take three people in his truck, not four. He already had a passenger when he picked us up. So Dona lay down and we stopped for the police. He looked at me and was obviously confused. He walked around to the driver's side and opened the door. Dona leaned her head forward and made an "Oh sh*t" face. I started to laugh because I couldn't imagine how the police officer wouldn't see her. But he didn't, shut the door and we were on our very slow way again. After about an hour and a half later we had only gone 25k. We couldn't take it anymore so we asked him to stop. We got out and started walking (is there a theme?). We actually walked faster than the truck. I'm not kidding, it was going that slow up hill. Once we flattened off, he took us over and we were left walking the rural hills of Rwanda. It was absolutely the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Again, I have pictures so just wait. Luckily we weren't alone. Even in the middle of nowhere we draw a crowd that just walks behind us giggling. We finally made to a little town that had taxis and restaurants. We sat and had a bbq'd banana and a beer - 720ml for $.75! The whole town stopped and was watching us. A group of women came over and we got up to shake their hands. Kids shyly peered over the wall, ducking over the wall when we looked over at them.
After this we decided to grab a beer while waiting on the side of the road which was only about 50 feet from the restaurant. The crowd watching us at the restaurant just moved over to where we sitting. A few people started chatting with us and we remembered we had a plastic bag of Waragi a local liqour made from bananas. We offered that over which made us instant friends. Dona played a local dance song on her cell phone and a few of us got up and were dancing. All of this tkaing place in the middle of the day in a rural Rwandan town on the top of a hill. Totally random but one of the most fabulous experiences of my life. A Red Cross truck stopped for us and we were waved off but what seemed like the majority of the town. We made it to Kigali safe and sound and I'm waiting to see about interviewing with the VP of Marketing for a micro finance company here. I would definitely like to stay in Rwanda for awhile. Kigali is expensive but a greta town that I feel at home in already. If I can't arrange the interview for tomorrow I will travel with Dona for the next couple of weeks to the national parks in Rwanda and then come back to Kigali. Fingers crossed something works out here. I love it!
Well, better go! Miss you all and wish you could experience this. Rwanda should definitely be on your list of places to visit. Until next time...
Thursday 17 July 2008
Alive and Kicking!
Well, between lack of internet and being on the move for the last couple of weeks, I seem to be terrible at this blogging thing! I'm now in Uganda (Kampala) so will quickly recap my Kenya experience...
My first week in Kenya was luxurious. I met up with Dona just fine after a problem-free journey from London. Qatar Airways is now my favorite. It has old school luxuries and almost unbelievable staff. Think about it for your next trip!
Dona and I had one night in Mombasa before heading out to the island of Lamu, by bus. The trip was very long and tiring but it was all worth as we saw where we staying. There were 40 of us on the island in four beautiful houses. The largest of the houses was four stories, right on the beach and included an infinity pool. We had our own chef and house staff that catered to our every need. We actually befriended them and we had such a fun time hanging out. They even took us to their local bar. So much more happened on Lamu that I can't include because I'm running out of time here and I want to share my most recent experience.
After Lamu, and meeting up with Dona's friend, Lara, we decided to head to Uganda. Lara had already spent a week in Kenya doing a safari etc. so didn't want to do it again and Dona has a friend who will take us on safari in Tanzania anyway. So we took a bus from Lamu to Mombasa (9 hours), the next day from Mombasa to Nairobi (12 hours) and finally Nairobi to Jinja (12 hours). It was a hellish trip but, again, worth it. Jinja is home to white water rafting on the Nile. The Nile actually begins here and is fed from Lake Victoria. When I heard this, of course being the adventure junky I am, I had to do it!
So we set off on the water last Tuesday. I have to say that it was the most terrifying experience of my life and if my raft isn't gently floating along with my six pack hanging in the water from the back, my bum isn't getting in! We did the full day option which included 10 rapids ranging from class 3 to 5. Obviously we had a lot of training in the water at the beginning and when they wanted is the water I hesitated, it was the Nile after all. That would turn out to be the least of my worries! It's a good thing we had the training because I needed every bit of it. The first rapid we had to conquer was a class 5 and unfortunately for me, I didn't heed the "get down" order from the guide fast enough and turned around just in time to see a wall of water before it flicked me off the raft right into the thick of the rapid. All I thought when it hit was "oh no" then in the water all I could focus on was desperately trying to catch my breath in between beatings from the water. I then hit my foot on a rock and remembered to keep my feet up, just in time as I was pushed between two large rocks jutting out of the water. I cracked my knee on this going through. Then, as fast I was in it, I was out. A safety kayak had come and rescued me and it was only as I clung to the front of his boat that I became conscious of what had just happened. It was going to be a long day - 9 more rapids to get through. By the time we got to the last rapid we had flipped twice and gone over a 10 foot waterfall. Saying I was done would be an understatement. The last rapid of the day was called the bad place and that's exactly where I went mentally and emotionally. We had to get off the raft and walk around the class 6 part of the rapid. It was the scariest thing I have ever seen and the thoughts of getting in the boat again and riding the last part was more terrifying than I can put into words. (Not to mention that it had just poured with rain on us for about an hour - rain like I'd never seen.) So we get in the boat and the guide asks if we are ready - I am on the verge of tears and he must have noticed because he said "Kate, you're going to be ok, got it? We're going to be ok." Not convinced, I choked back my tears. We set off, hit the first rapids...we made it. We were in a calm spot before the next rapid that definitely looked liked we were going to flip. It was then we saw that a girl on our boat had split her lip right through from her paddle smacking her in the face. This made the guide decide to miss out the last rapid so we gently glided through and then back to the bus. I have never felt so broken. My chest and stomach didn't untighten until I was in dry clothes next to the bus half way through my first beer. It was an incredible experience but will be the only time I attempt white water rafting.
We're now in Kampala. We tried to book a trip to see the Gorillas by the border with the Congo but all the permits are sold. So we're going to go up to Mirschesen Falls in the North. Guess it's difficult to get to so the girls are thinking of hitch hiking. Not to keen but we'll see how it goes.
Hope you're all well and I will try to be better at communicating!
My first week in Kenya was luxurious. I met up with Dona just fine after a problem-free journey from London. Qatar Airways is now my favorite. It has old school luxuries and almost unbelievable staff. Think about it for your next trip!
Dona and I had one night in Mombasa before heading out to the island of Lamu, by bus. The trip was very long and tiring but it was all worth as we saw where we staying. There were 40 of us on the island in four beautiful houses. The largest of the houses was four stories, right on the beach and included an infinity pool. We had our own chef and house staff that catered to our every need. We actually befriended them and we had such a fun time hanging out. They even took us to their local bar. So much more happened on Lamu that I can't include because I'm running out of time here and I want to share my most recent experience.
After Lamu, and meeting up with Dona's friend, Lara, we decided to head to Uganda. Lara had already spent a week in Kenya doing a safari etc. so didn't want to do it again and Dona has a friend who will take us on safari in Tanzania anyway. So we took a bus from Lamu to Mombasa (9 hours), the next day from Mombasa to Nairobi (12 hours) and finally Nairobi to Jinja (12 hours). It was a hellish trip but, again, worth it. Jinja is home to white water rafting on the Nile. The Nile actually begins here and is fed from Lake Victoria. When I heard this, of course being the adventure junky I am, I had to do it!
So we set off on the water last Tuesday. I have to say that it was the most terrifying experience of my life and if my raft isn't gently floating along with my six pack hanging in the water from the back, my bum isn't getting in! We did the full day option which included 10 rapids ranging from class 3 to 5. Obviously we had a lot of training in the water at the beginning and when they wanted is the water I hesitated, it was the Nile after all. That would turn out to be the least of my worries! It's a good thing we had the training because I needed every bit of it. The first rapid we had to conquer was a class 5 and unfortunately for me, I didn't heed the "get down" order from the guide fast enough and turned around just in time to see a wall of water before it flicked me off the raft right into the thick of the rapid. All I thought when it hit was "oh no" then in the water all I could focus on was desperately trying to catch my breath in between beatings from the water. I then hit my foot on a rock and remembered to keep my feet up, just in time as I was pushed between two large rocks jutting out of the water. I cracked my knee on this going through. Then, as fast I was in it, I was out. A safety kayak had come and rescued me and it was only as I clung to the front of his boat that I became conscious of what had just happened. It was going to be a long day - 9 more rapids to get through. By the time we got to the last rapid we had flipped twice and gone over a 10 foot waterfall. Saying I was done would be an understatement. The last rapid of the day was called the bad place and that's exactly where I went mentally and emotionally. We had to get off the raft and walk around the class 6 part of the rapid. It was the scariest thing I have ever seen and the thoughts of getting in the boat again and riding the last part was more terrifying than I can put into words. (Not to mention that it had just poured with rain on us for about an hour - rain like I'd never seen.) So we get in the boat and the guide asks if we are ready - I am on the verge of tears and he must have noticed because he said "Kate, you're going to be ok, got it? We're going to be ok." Not convinced, I choked back my tears. We set off, hit the first rapids...we made it. We were in a calm spot before the next rapid that definitely looked liked we were going to flip. It was then we saw that a girl on our boat had split her lip right through from her paddle smacking her in the face. This made the guide decide to miss out the last rapid so we gently glided through and then back to the bus. I have never felt so broken. My chest and stomach didn't untighten until I was in dry clothes next to the bus half way through my first beer. It was an incredible experience but will be the only time I attempt white water rafting.
We're now in Kampala. We tried to book a trip to see the Gorillas by the border with the Congo but all the permits are sold. So we're going to go up to Mirschesen Falls in the North. Guess it's difficult to get to so the girls are thinking of hitch hiking. Not to keen but we'll see how it goes.
Hope you're all well and I will try to be better at communicating!
Thursday 3 July 2008
No Turning Back Now!
At Heathrow, just checked in all the way to Nairobi. I think it's finally hit me and I can't keep the smile off my face! This is the most exciting thing that's happened to me in years and I feel so excited and grateful. I can't actually think of a way to express this gratitude except to do my best to experience everything and to do whatever I can to have a positive impact on all those I encounter.
Off to grab a final pint in my homeland and cheers my love, my family, my friends, and all those who have supported me. You're in my thoughts!
CHEERS!
Off to grab a final pint in my homeland and cheers my love, my family, my friends, and all those who have supported me. You're in my thoughts!
CHEERS!
On My Way!
I just set up my blog and testing it out. Hopefully it will work okay. I don't feel as technically confident now that I'm out of my cubicle!
So, I'm sitting here in London sending the last e-mails I can before I head off into the unknown. My flight to Nairobi leaves in seven hours. I've had a lovely visit with friends which has helped dull the sadness I felt leaving Richard, my mum and all my American friends.
I can't believe the time has actually come and I have to admit that it hasn't fully sunk in yet. Maybe when I check into my flight?
Anyway, must dash to get some tea to settle my stomach. Will try to be good at keeping up with this blog.
Will write again from Africa!
So, I'm sitting here in London sending the last e-mails I can before I head off into the unknown. My flight to Nairobi leaves in seven hours. I've had a lovely visit with friends which has helped dull the sadness I felt leaving Richard, my mum and all my American friends.
I can't believe the time has actually come and I have to admit that it hasn't fully sunk in yet. Maybe when I check into my flight?
Anyway, must dash to get some tea to settle my stomach. Will try to be good at keeping up with this blog.
Will write again from Africa!
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