What an amazing few weeks!

I sat in the internet place for an hour yesterday catching you all up on the last cuple of weeks of my adventure only to have my computer shut down and lose it all. I was so frustrated I needed to go for a walk and give up completely for the day. So here goes again...

After white rafting we headed up to Murchison Falls in the north of Uganda. We had a night in Kampala, the capital of Uganda on our way up there. I have never seen such a packed busy town in my life. It was heaving with people the entire night. We stayed at a local hotel that wasn't too bad. I have to admit that I have had a difficult time adjusting to the ways and standards of the backpacker life. I like a clean bed and hot shower. I haven't had a "bucket shower" yet which has left me to go without a shower for three days. Thank goodness for wet wipes!

Murchison Falls is not an easy place to get to if you are not hiring a private car from Kampala or the nearest main town to the National Park, Masindi. The girls decided they would try to hitch hike. I was really not keen on this idea but thought I wouldn't worry about it until the last minute. We got to the bus station in Kampala at 9:30a.m. for the bus that was scheduled to leave at 10:00a.m. Well, we waited, and waited...and waited for the bus to arrive. It'd didn't arrive until 11:30a.m. and didn't leave the bus station until 12:30p.m. No buses leave without them being 100% full, and at $8 USD per gallon it's not really surprising. We stopped at the gas station on the way out of town and it cost them over $600 USD to fill up the bus. Not much of a profit margin. So be thankful that your gas prices aren't that bad and if they were, at least you are earning more than $300 per month.

We met a British girl, Sophie, who just graduated from St. Andrews at the bus station who was also going up to the Falls and staying at the same campsite we were. She had planned to get a private car from Masindi so I was debating on whether to share the ride with her. Once there though I decided to stay with the girls because the private car was going to cost about $75. Because the bis had left so late we didn't arrive in Masindi until almost 5p.m. but we thought we might still be able to catch a ride so we walked about a mile or so up the road to the turn off to the park. No luck after about an hour later and with the rain clouds coming in we decided it best to stay in town. I was not looking forward to this as the town looked like it didn't have anywhere even halfway decent to stay. We found a local place just before the heavens opened and it started to pour. We had two single rooms (I shared with Dona), both costing us $5 together. This was the place with the bucket shower that I opted out of. We were starving so put on our ponchos and made a run for the nearest restaurant. Local place, again, beans and rice for dinner. We're starting to joke now that Dona is going to hold an intervention to get me to eat more. I'll definitely be the former shadow of myself by the time I get home. Thankfully they have beer so I am getting some calories!

After a bad night's sleep - Africans are up all night chatting and listening to music - we got up early to make our way to the campsite 75k from where we were. We walked back to the spot we had picked the night before where there were now tons of motorbikes wanting to give us a ride to the park entrance. They wouldn't leave us alone and were ruining our ability to have passerbys stop so we decided to walk. I didn't know at the time, but that day would involve a lot of walking! We walked maybe a mile before a salt truck stopped and we hopped in the back with some other locals. About five minutes later he stopped at a fork in the road. He was headed to the right and we were headed to the left. Again a motorbike tried to get us to go with him and also someone on a peddle bike. So, we waled again. This time for a really long time. Just when I thought I couldn't walk anymore, we heard something coming behind us. We all stopped and waited for whatever it was to come around the corner. Slowly it came to reveal a tractor pulling a trailor. He stopped and we hopped in. He let Dona and Lara drive the bus which was loads of fun. We felt like we were on a float in a town parade because kids emerged out of nowhere and all the people would stop what they were doing and wave. I now know what it feels like to be a celebrity. All eyes on you and people gathering just to look at you. So after Lara managed not to kill us as she dove down a hill at an alarming rate for a tractor and weaving very closely to the ditches, we made it to the tractor's final destination. Unfortunately it wasn't at the park gate. Luckily a truck stopped and picked us up. He dropped us about a half mile from the gate so we just walked. The staff and the gate office were shocked to see three white girls with their packs just walking up the road. We told them we were going to keep on walking and they wouldn't let us because of the animals. We said we'd be fine and as I looked down the road I saw about 20 baboons blocking the road ahead. "I guess we'll sit and wait then!"

We waited for awhile actually because it seems that Muzunguz (white people) aren't very willing to help others out. The whole day big SUVs or minivans half empt would fly by us, noone in the car even looking out the window at us. It must come down to fear. I think with the media today, particularly in the States, we are fed nothing but fear mongering messages that can't help but seap into the psyche. I'm recognizing it in myself and trying to let go of it. Such amazing experience are missed out by most because of it. Not to mention leaving three women on a dirt road in the middle of rural Uganda. No wonder they couldn't look at us. Anyway, after several people drove off without so much as a glance a wonderful Indian couple stopped. They only had room for one so we decided to split up. Just then another car stuffed to the roof with melons and other fruit stopped and agreed to take two. I lucked out as I got the nice airconditioned SUV. Dona and Lara however had to sit on each other's laps squished with all the produce. They we stiff and dusty by the time we met up at the campsite.

The campsite had an increidble view of the Nile. It seemed that we had had a number of wonderful views of the Nile up to that point. Thankfully, the Nile was calm here and the boat ride we were taking in the morning wouldn't involve helmets, lifevests and paddles! As it was a national park we were to see loads of animals on the boat as well as seeing the water fall. I was looking forward to it. That night as we were sitting having a beer in the outside restaurant/bar area we saw a few warthogs emerge from the brush. I hadn't ever seen one outside of the Lion King. It was amazing and I had to pinch myself several times to make sure I wasn't dreaming. A bit later Dona looked and said, "Oh, here comes another warthog." I turned around and as I was leaping out of my seat I said, "That isn't a warthog, it's a hippo." And sure enough this huge hippo was walking through the campsite. I backed away quickly assessing where the water was to make sure I didn't get inbetween it and the hippo, but the other toursits grabbed there cameras and ingnoring the signs started following it and taking flash photos. I waited for the roar and then chaos. But the hippop just went on its way. Now I really had to pinch myself!
The boat ride was lovely the next day. We had talked our way onto the boat as it was fully booked too but as it would take us most of the day to get back to Masindi we didn't want to wait for the afternoon trip. Seems we've been getting lucky like this. The campsite the night before was totally booked but seeing as how we were out in the middle of nowhere they had to make something work. I shared a tent with Sophie that had a proper bed and was very comfortable. Again I had lucked out becasue Lara and Dona had to share one of the staff's personal backpacking tent which he had erected right next to the hippo path. It's the first time I saw Dona scared!

After the boat ride we were able to get a ride back to town with two old guys, one from England and the other from Australia. They were headed to Kampala, which was where Lara needed to get to the following day for a flight out to S. Africa so she went on with them and left Dona and I in Masindi. Another night in the small dusty town. Which by the way had more churches and western religious aid places than I had seen before. Seventh Day Adventist, Jehovah Witness, Christians. It's crazy the number of churches here. I'll delve into my views on all of this at another point but I think one of the main problems in these African countries is that the people are being told through many different vehicles to be conformists, do what has always been done, not to question. And will political, social and economic situations really ever change if we're all followers?

So, we stayed at a bit nicer place that had a warm shower! We met an American guy that night going down to Lake Bunyonyi where we were headnig so we decided to travel together in the morning. At breakfast, we discovered he was a poly sci major at UCSB and aspired to be a lobbyist. I groaned at this and said - given that he had long hair a shaggy beard and dressed like a hippy - at least you'll be doing it for the right side. He then said, well actually I'm a Republican. Again, groan. His reason - less government in personal lives. Now that got to me because I have not felt like my rights and privacy have been more abused and violated than in the last 7 years. Whatever! Dona and I had decided to try to hitch hike most of the way down to lake and I knew that this guy's true nature would come through his hippy facade once we got on the road. He didn't last after the first vehicle! We had been dropped off at a little town. Once we sat down of course the kids came over. Dona and I gave out star stickers to them and played around for a bit. I love these parts of our trip. To see the "real" Africa and be able to have a positive interaction is amazing. To bad for all the Muzungus in their Land Rovers not even looking out the window at these people.

We actually took a minivan to the next big town. Scott, our lovely friend, had decided to pay the exhorbitant price to get to Fort Portal - our destination for the day. We however grabbed our bags and walked up the road to hitch hike. We actually stopped and had lunch and a beer, cleaned up a bit before resting our things in the shade by the road. A few kids again came over along with some of their family members. We played, Dona juggled for them and blew on the pieces of grass so it make that sqeeking sound. The kids thought that was hilarious. We eventually got picked up by a school teacher and a woman who runs a micro finance project. They could only take us up the road a few minutes. He dropped us right at the bus/taxi area so we were mobbed as soon as we got out. This stresses both of us out so we just started walking up the road. It feels like you can't even think when you're being hounded like that. Schools were just getting out and we must have been in school alley because the streets were mobbed with students. Again, we were the hottest thing to have hit the town so all eyes were on us. When we stopped to drop our bags kids came running up to the fence to look at us. We went over to shake their hands which caused even more excitement and more kids to run over to us. It's such a strange feeling to be something so curious. Some kids are even a bit scared of us. One of the minivan taxis stopped and said he was going to Fort Portal anyway so gave us a good price. We hopped in, in the front seat which isn't typical. So we set off. About half an hour later we come upon another minivan that had broken down and all the people were standing around. As we pulled up guess who we saw, yep, our friend, Scott. Isn't the universe wonderful! I thought it was so funny that he was so head strong about getting to town earlier and didn't want to "waste" time hitching. We'd had a great time while he paid too much to sit on the side of the road for an hour. He said that he didn't mind paying more and for chilling on the side of the road not to have the hassle. Playing with local kids and shaking hands with tons of school kids isn't my idea of a hassle. It's genuine experiences that are making my trip!

From Fort Portal we took a bus straight down to Kagale - the main town by the lake. It was a standard African bus ride. We waited for two hours for the bus to fill then it stopped for gas then it stopped every few minutes to let people off. No big deal really. We sat behind three Muzungus, however, who thought it was awful. They didn't shut up talking the entire 8 hours of the trip either. I don't know why I'm beginning not to like hanging out with other white travelers. It seems like they want western comforts more than they want to appreciate the realities around them. Africa isn't just about snapping pictures of beautiful scenery, people and animals. It's about interacting with everything and experiencing the country for what it is.

We made it to town and then took motorbikes over to the campsite by the lake. It was absolutely beautiful with terraced fields on all sides of us. It was cold too. Really cold. My long pants were filthy from the tractor ride to the Falls and had been strapped to the outside of my bag because they were so bad. We did laundry and decided to stay for a couple of days. It was nice to relax for a bit. Traveling is exhausting, particularly how we do it.

So after a few days relaxing we decided to head to Kigali, Rwanda. Goal: not to pay anything for transportation. We did it all but for $.75 to get back to the main town from the lake. I will say though, that we walked the uphill part with our bags! It was a good two miles. I have pictures but it's really difficult to upload them. Hopefully I'll get them up soon. From Kagale, we hopped in a big rig - new with lots of space. It was a great ride to the Rwandan border. We walked across the border, exchanged some money and decided to walk a bit further up the road to get away from the taxis. As we were walking up the road we gathered a crowd - nothing different from Uganda. A local guy came up to em and I thought he was speaking in his native language wehn all of a sudden it hit me - I can understand him! They speak French in Rwanda?! You'd think I would have know this from the fact I had just exchanged my Ugandan Shillings into Rwandan Francs!

I fell in love with the country on that first few hundred feet in from the border. This only grew as the day went on. We sat on a hill and waited for the next car to come by. Obviously we had drawn a crowd and between my dismal French, Dona's limited Swahili and the local's broken English, we had a fun conversation. Nothing like laughing together in total confusion. Eventually an old Petrolium truck that was definitely past it use by date stoped and picked us up. It was so slow but I guess was better than walking - to begin with. As we came up to a police check point the driver had Dona lay down with her head behind his seat. They could only take three people in his truck, not four. He already had a passenger when he picked us up. So Dona lay down and we stopped for the police. He looked at me and was obviously confused. He walked around to the driver's side and opened the door. Dona leaned her head forward and made an "Oh sh*t" face. I started to laugh because I couldn't imagine how the police officer wouldn't see her. But he didn't, shut the door and we were on our very slow way again. After about an hour and a half later we had only gone 25k. We couldn't take it anymore so we asked him to stop. We got out and started walking (is there a theme?). We actually walked faster than the truck. I'm not kidding, it was going that slow up hill. Once we flattened off, he took us over and we were left walking the rural hills of Rwanda. It was absolutely the most beautiful scenery I have ever seen. Again, I have pictures so just wait. Luckily we weren't alone. Even in the middle of nowhere we draw a crowd that just walks behind us giggling. We finally made to a little town that had taxis and restaurants. We sat and had a bbq'd banana and a beer - 720ml for $.75! The whole town stopped and was watching us. A group of women came over and we got up to shake their hands. Kids shyly peered over the wall, ducking over the wall when we looked over at them.

After this we decided to grab a beer while waiting on the side of the road which was only about 50 feet from the restaurant. The crowd watching us at the restaurant just moved over to where we sitting. A few people started chatting with us and we remembered we had a plastic bag of Waragi a local liqour made from bananas. We offered that over which made us instant friends. Dona played a local dance song on her cell phone and a few of us got up and were dancing. All of this tkaing place in the middle of the day in a rural Rwandan town on the top of a hill. Totally random but one of the most fabulous experiences of my life. A Red Cross truck stopped for us and we were waved off but what seemed like the majority of the town. We made it to Kigali safe and sound and I'm waiting to see about interviewing with the VP of Marketing for a micro finance company here. I would definitely like to stay in Rwanda for awhile. Kigali is expensive but a greta town that I feel at home in already. If I can't arrange the interview for tomorrow I will travel with Dona for the next couple of weeks to the national parks in Rwanda and then come back to Kigali. Fingers crossed something works out here. I love it!

Well, better go! Miss you all and wish you could experience this. Rwanda should definitely be on your list of places to visit. Until next time...

Alive and Kicking!

Well, between lack of internet and being on the move for the last couple of weeks, I seem to be terrible at this blogging thing! I'm now in Uganda (Kampala) so will quickly recap my Kenya experience...

My first week in Kenya was luxurious. I met up with Dona just fine after a problem-free journey from London. Qatar Airways is now my favorite. It has old school luxuries and almost unbelievable staff. Think about it for your next trip!

Dona and I had one night in Mombasa before heading out to the island of Lamu, by bus. The trip was very long and tiring but it was all worth as we saw where we staying. There were 40 of us on the island in four beautiful houses. The largest of the houses was four stories, right on the beach and included an infinity pool. We had our own chef and house staff that catered to our every need. We actually befriended them and we had such a fun time hanging out. They even took us to their local bar. So much more happened on Lamu that I can't include because I'm running out of time here and I want to share my most recent experience.

After Lamu, and meeting up with Dona's friend, Lara, we decided to head to Uganda. Lara had already spent a week in Kenya doing a safari etc. so didn't want to do it again and Dona has a friend who will take us on safari in Tanzania anyway. So we took a bus from Lamu to Mombasa (9 hours), the next day from Mombasa to Nairobi (12 hours) and finally Nairobi to Jinja (12 hours). It was a hellish trip but, again, worth it. Jinja is home to white water rafting on the Nile. The Nile actually begins here and is fed from Lake Victoria. When I heard this, of course being the adventure junky I am, I had to do it!

So we set off on the water last Tuesday. I have to say that it was the most terrifying experience of my life and if my raft isn't gently floating along with my six pack hanging in the water from the back, my bum isn't getting in! We did the full day option which included 10 rapids ranging from class 3 to 5. Obviously we had a lot of training in the water at the beginning and when they wanted is the water I hesitated, it was the Nile after all. That would turn out to be the least of my worries! It's a good thing we had the training because I needed every bit of it. The first rapid we had to conquer was a class 5 and unfortunately for me, I didn't heed the "get down" order from the guide fast enough and turned around just in time to see a wall of water before it flicked me off the raft right into the thick of the rapid. All I thought when it hit was "oh no" then in the water all I could focus on was desperately trying to catch my breath in between beatings from the water. I then hit my foot on a rock and remembered to keep my feet up, just in time as I was pushed between two large rocks jutting out of the water. I cracked my knee on this going through. Then, as fast I was in it, I was out. A safety kayak had come and rescued me and it was only as I clung to the front of his boat that I became conscious of what had just happened. It was going to be a long day - 9 more rapids to get through. By the time we got to the last rapid we had flipped twice and gone over a 10 foot waterfall. Saying I was done would be an understatement. The last rapid of the day was called the bad place and that's exactly where I went mentally and emotionally. We had to get off the raft and walk around the class 6 part of the rapid. It was the scariest thing I have ever seen and the thoughts of getting in the boat again and riding the last part was more terrifying than I can put into words. (Not to mention that it had just poured with rain on us for about an hour - rain like I'd never seen.) So we get in the boat and the guide asks if we are ready - I am on the verge of tears and he must have noticed because he said "Kate, you're going to be ok, got it? We're going to be ok." Not convinced, I choked back my tears. We set off, hit the first rapids...we made it. We were in a calm spot before the next rapid that definitely looked liked we were going to flip. It was then we saw that a girl on our boat had split her lip right through from her paddle smacking her in the face. This made the guide decide to miss out the last rapid so we gently glided through and then back to the bus. I have never felt so broken. My chest and stomach didn't untighten until I was in dry clothes next to the bus half way through my first beer. It was an incredible experience but will be the only time I attempt white water rafting.

We're now in Kampala. We tried to book a trip to see the Gorillas by the border with the Congo but all the permits are sold. So we're going to go up to Mirschesen Falls in the North. Guess it's difficult to get to so the girls are thinking of hitch hiking. Not to keen but we'll see how it goes.

Hope you're all well and I will try to be better at communicating!

No Turning Back Now!

At Heathrow, just checked in all the way to Nairobi. I think it's finally hit me and I can't keep the smile off my face! This is the most exciting thing that's happened to me in years and I feel so excited and grateful. I can't actually think of a way to express this gratitude except to do my best to experience everything and to do whatever I can to have a positive impact on all those I encounter.

Off to grab a final pint in my homeland and cheers my love, my family, my friends, and all those who have supported me. You're in my thoughts!

CHEERS!

On My Way!

I just set up my blog and testing it out. Hopefully it will work okay. I don't feel as technically confident now that I'm out of my cubicle!

So, I'm sitting here in London sending the last e-mails I can before I head off into the unknown. My flight to Nairobi leaves in seven hours. I've had a lovely visit with friends which has helped dull the sadness I felt leaving Richard, my mum and all my American friends.

I can't believe the time has actually come and I have to admit that it hasn't fully sunk in yet. Maybe when I check into my flight?

Anyway, must dash to get some tea to settle my stomach. Will try to be good at keeping up with this blog.

Will write again from Africa!